How Big Will My Mini Goldendoodle Get?

Goldendoodle puppy sitting and looking up

“How big is my puppy going to get?” might be the question we hear most. Usually it comes while someone is holding an eight-week-old fluffball that fits in one arm. We get it. You want to know if the dog sleeping in your lap will still be a lap dog next year.

The honest answer is that nobody can promise an exact number. But you can get a pretty good idea, and here is how we think about it.

Start with the parents

This is the biggest clue by far. A Mini Goldendoodle comes from a smaller Poodle and a Golden Retriever, and the size of both parents matters. When you meet a breeder, ask what the mom and dad weigh. If they won’t tell you, that’s worth noticing. Puppies from smaller parents tend to stay smaller, and puppies from bigger parents tend to grow up bigger.

The general size ranges

Here is what we usually tell families:

  • Mini: roughly 15 to 30 pounds
  • Medium: roughly 30 to 45 pounds
  • Standard: roughly 45 to 75 pounds, sometimes more

Those are ranges, not guarantees. Within a single litter you can have a pup on the small end and a sibling that runs a few pounds heavier. Girls are often a little smaller than boys, but not always.

A rough rule of thumb

Many breeders and vets use a simple trick for smaller dogs. Weigh your puppy at 16 weeks and double it. That number gives you a ballpark for adult weight. A 12 pound puppy at four months will probably land somewhere around 24 pounds. It isn’t science, just a handy guess, and some dogs will surprise you.

Puppies also grow in spurts. You’ll see a week where they look all legs, then they fill out again. Most Mini Goldendoodles reach close to their full height by around 10 to 12 months and keep filling out for a while after that.

What doesn’t change the size

Feeding less won’t keep a puppy small, and feeding more won’t make a dog bigger than its genes planned. Overfeeding just makes a heavy dog, which is hard on young joints. Feed the amount your vet recommends and keep your puppy lean and active.

If size really matters for your home, an apartment or a small car or a family member who can’t handle a big dog, tell us up front. We’d rather help you pick the right puppy than have you surprised later. Reach out to Puppy Pals anytime and we’ll talk it through.

Featured image: Photo by Jacob Fletcher on Unsplash

Best Shampoos and Conditioners for Goldendoodle Coats

Curly golden Goldendoodle puppy sitting in a sunlit garden

Bath day with a Goldendoodle is a bigger deal than it is with a short-haired dog. That curly or wavy coat is what we love about them, and it is also what turns into a tangled mess if the wrong product goes on it. We have raised a lot of puppies and bathed a lot of doodles, and the shampoo shelf at the pet store can be overwhelming. So here is what we look for, and the three products we point new puppy families toward.

What to look for in a Goldendoodle shampoo

A few things matter more than the label on the front.

  • Gentle cleanser. Doodle skin can be sensitive. Harsh soaps strip the coat and leave it dry and frizzy.
  • Something that helps with tangles. Curly and wavy coats mat easily, and a wet coat that is already knotted only gets worse in the tub.
  • Puppy friendly. If your pup is young, check the bottle for age guidance before you buy.
  • A scent you can live with. You will smell it on the couch for a day or two.

One more thing. Brush your dog out before the bath, every time. Water tightens a mat instead of loosening it. If you need a refresher on tools, we wrote up our favorites in Our Favorite Grooming Tools for Goldendoodles.

1. The shampoo: TropiClean Perfect Fur Curly & Wavy

This one is made with curly and wavy coats in mind, which is exactly what most of our Goldendoodles have. It uses a mild coconut-based cleanser and is meant to cut down on tangles and help the coat dry with some lift instead of lying flat and heavy.

Why we like it: it is a simple, no-fuss shampoo that does what it says. It is a good first pick if you want one bottle and do not want to think too hard about it. Find it here: TropiClean Perfect Fur Curly & Wavy Shampoo.

2. The all-in-one: We Love Doodles Shampoo, Conditioner & Detangler

If bath time already feels like a three-ring circus at your house, an all-in-one saves a step. This 16 oz bottle combines shampoo, conditioner and detangler, with jojoba oil, aloe vera, chamomile and calendula. It is sold as gentle enough for puppies.

Why we like it: wiggly puppies do not hold still for a long bath. Fewer bottles means a shorter bath and a happier pup. It will not replace a good brushing, but it helps loosen small knots as you go. Here is the link: We Love Doodles Shampoo, Conditioner & Detangler.

3. The between-bath helper: TropiClean Dog Detangler Spray

This is a leave-in spray you use on a dry or damp coat before you brush. It coats the tangles so the slicker brush slides through instead of pulling. It is the one we reach for in the middle of the week when a puppy has been rolling around outside and the ears are starting to knot up.

Why we like it: it makes daily brushing easier, and easy brushing is what keeps a doodle out of the groomer’s chair with a full shave-down. A spray will help with small tangles but will not rescue a heavily matted coat. For that, you want a professional. Grab it here: TropiClean Dog Detangler Spray.

What we skip

We stay away from human shampoo, even the gentle baby kind. Dog skin is less acidic than ours, and human products can leave a doodle dry and flaky. We also skip heavily perfumed bottles. If a shampoo smells strong enough to fill the room, it is probably going to bother your puppy’s nose and skin too. When in doubt, pick the plain option and let the brushing do the heavy lifting between baths.

A few bath day tips from our house

Use lukewarm water. Wet the whole coat first, all the way down to the skin, because doodle hair holds a lot of water. Work the shampoo in gently with your fingers instead of scrubbing in circles, which can tangle things up. Rinse longer than you think you need to. Leftover soap is the number one cause of itchy skin we hear about.

Dry the coat well, too. A damp doodle left to air dry can end up with tight little mats behind the ears and under the legs. A towel first, then a blow dryer on a cool or low setting while you brush, works best. Go slow and keep treats handy so the dryer stays a good thing in your puppy’s mind.

How often to bathe? For most of our dogs, every four to six weeks is plenty, with brushing in between. If your dog has skin trouble or a medical coat condition, ask your vet before you change products.

Got a favorite shampoo that works wonders on your doodle? We are always happy to hear what is working for other families.

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Featured image: Photo by Taylor on Unsplash

The Puppy Zoomies Are Normal (Here’s Why)

If you have ever watched a puppy go from sound asleep to a full sprint around the living room in about two seconds, you have seen the zoomies. Ears flat, back end tucked, eyes a little wild. It looks like something is wrong. It isn’t. This is one of the most normal things a puppy does.

Vets have a fancier name for it, frenetic random activity periods, but “zoomies” says it better. It’s a burst of pent-up energy that has to go somewhere. Puppies run on a short fuse, and when the tank gets too full, out it comes.

When they usually happen

You’ll start to notice a pattern. Zoomies tend to show up:

  • Right after a bath or a good towel rub
  • When they first come out of the crate
  • In the evening, when the whole house gets a little louder
  • After a potty trip, once they are back inside
  • When you get home and they are thrilled to see you

Our Goldendoodles are no different. Luna and Macie are grown and still get them now and then, usually after a bath or when the kids start running through the house. The puppies just do it with a lot less dignity.

What to do while it’s happening

Mostly, get out of the way. Seriously. Make sure the path is clear of anything breakable or slippery, and let them run it out. Hardwood floors with socks-on-ice puppy paws can end badly, so if you can steer them to a rug or the yard, do that.

Don’t chase. Chasing turns it into a game and winds them up more. If you need them to stop, walk away or turn sideways and call them in a happy voice. When they come to you, reward them with a treat or some calm petting. They learn that coming back is worth it.

And don’t scold. They aren’t being bad. They’re being puppies.

Cutting down on the wild ones

If the zoomies feel nonstop, the fix is usually more outlet earlier in the day. A walk, a little sniffing time, a short game of fetch or tug before the evening rush. A puppy with a good outlet has less to burn off at 9pm. Rest matters too. An overtired puppy often gets more wild, not less, so make sure naps are actually happening.

When to ask your vet

Zoomies on their own are healthy. If your puppy seems frantic all the time, can’t settle even when tired, or the running comes with yelping, limping, or odd behavior, give your vet a call. That’s rare, but it’s worth a quick check.

For almost every family, though, the answer is simple. Clear the floor, let them go, and enjoy the show. It’s one of the funniest parts of having a puppy.

Puppy Pals Team

3 Commands Every Puppy Should Know by 12 Weeks

People ask us all the time what they should teach their puppy first. Sit, down, stay, roll over, shake? Honestly, you can skip most of that for now. If your puppy knows three simple things by 12 weeks, life at home gets a lot easier.

1. Look At Me

This one is our favorite, and it’s the one most people forget. Hold a small treat near your puppy’s nose, then slowly bring it up to your eyes. The second your puppy glances at your face, say “Yes” and give the treat. That’s it.

Why it matters: a puppy who will look at you can be redirected from almost anything. A squirrel, a visitor, the neighbor’s dog. You get their attention back first, then you can ask for something else.

2. Sit

Sit is the old standby for a reason. Hold a treat at your puppy’s nose and slowly move it back over their head. Their rear end drops as their nose follows the treat. Say “Yes” the moment it touches the floor.

Don’t push on their back, and don’t repeat the word over and over. Say “sit” one time and wait. Puppies figure out fast that the word only counts once. A sit at the door before it opens or before a meal turns into good manners without you even trying.

3. Leave It

Put a treat in your closed fist and let your puppy sniff and nibble at your hand. They will paw and lick, and that’s fine. The moment they back off, even a little, say “Yes” and give them a different treat from your other hand. Not the one in your fist.

After a few days they’ll start backing off as soon as they hear the words. This is the command that keeps socks, dropped chicken bones and mystery stuff on the sidewalk out of your puppy’s mouth. With Goldendoodles, who love to carry everything around, you will use it daily.

A few tips that make it stick

  • Keep sessions to about five minutes. Puppies tire out fast.
  • Do a little exercise first. A tired puppy learns better than a wild one.
  • Use tiny soft treats so you aren’t filling them up.
  • Reward the instant they do it right, not three seconds later.
  • Stay calm and cheerful. If they get it wrong, just reset and try again, no scolding.

Don’t worry if your puppy isn’t perfect at 12 weeks. They’re babies. If you practice a few minutes a day, these three will be solid before you know it, and they give you a great base for everything else down the road.

Puppy Pals Team

Leash Training Your Goldendoodle: How to Stop the Pulling

Goldendoodle puppy walking on a leash outdoors

If you have a Goldendoodle puppy, you have probably already had the walk where your arm feels two inches longer by the end. We have had that walk with every one of our dogs. We follow the positive reinforcement approach that trainers like Zak George teach, and it has worked for Luna, Macie, and every puppy we have sent home. Loose leash walking is a skill, not a personality trait, and puppies learn it the same way they learn everything else: by figuring out what gets rewarded.

Why Goldendoodles Pull in the First Place

Pulling is not your puppy being stubborn. Walking at your speed is slow and boring for a dog. Everything out there smells amazing, and the fastest way to get to the next smell is to lean into the leash. If leaning works, they lean harder. Every time you follow a pulling puppy to the thing they wanted, you just taught them that pulling is how the walk works.

Goldendoodles are smart and eager to please, which is great news. It also means they pick up bad habits just as quickly as good ones. The trick is to make the good habit more rewarding than the bad one, and to start early.

Start Inside, Not on the Sidewalk

Do not make your first lesson a walk around the block. Start in the living room or the backyard, where there is nothing exciting to pull toward. Clip the leash on, hold a few small treats, and just walk around the house. Any time your puppy is next to you with a loose leash, say "yes" and hand over a treat right at your leg. Keep it fast and happy.

Five minutes is plenty for a young puppy. Their attention runs out quickly, and you want to stop while they are still having fun. A tired puppy also learns better, so a quick game of fetch before the lesson takes the edge off the wiggles.

The Stop-and-Wait Rule

This is the one thing we ask every new family to practice. The moment the leash goes tight, you stop walking. Stand still like a tree. No yanking, no scolding, no dragging them back. Just stop.

When your puppy turns around to see why the fun stopped, or the leash goes slack even for a second, say "yes" and walk forward again. Pulling makes the walk stop. A loose leash makes the walk go. Puppies figure this out surprisingly fast, though it will feel slow for the first week or two. You might cover half a block in ten minutes. That is normal, and it pays off.

If your puppy keeps surging ahead, try turning and walking the other way. Reward them when they catch up and trot along next to you. You are teaching them that staying near you is where the good stuff happens.

Gear That Makes It Easier

You do not need fancy equipment, but a few basics help a lot. For a growing puppy we like a Best Pet Supplies Voyager Step-In Air Harness. It is light, easy to get on a wiggly puppy, and spreads pressure across the chest instead of the neck. We wrote more about harness choices in our leash and harness guide if you want the full breakdown.

For the leash itself, we like a simple six foot leash that is easy on your hands. The Taglory Rope Dog Leash is what we reach for. Skip the retractable leashes while you are training. They teach a puppy that pulling gets them more line, which is the exact opposite of what you want.

And then there are treats. Training treats should be small and smelly enough to compete with the outside world. We like Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Beef Bites for walks because they are tiny, light enough to carry in a pocket, and most puppies will do almost anything for them. Save the really good ones for the hard moments, like walking past another dog.

Handling Distractions

Once your puppy is walking nicely at home, take the lesson to the front yard, then the quiet street, then the park. Each new place is like starting over a little bit, so expect some pulling when the setting gets more exciting. Go back to short sessions and higher value treats.

When you see a distraction coming, like a squirrel, a bike, or another dog, get your puppy’s attention before they lock on. Ask for a quick "look at me," reward it, and keep moving. If they are already pulling hard, calmly turn and walk away until they settle down, then try again from a greater distance.

Common Mistakes

Most of the trouble we see comes from a few things. Walks are too long too soon, and a young puppy gets tired and falls apart. Families give inconsistent rules, so one person lets the puppy pull and another does not. Or someone skips the treats once the puppy seems to be getting it. Keep rewarding for a long time. You can slowly space them out, but a puppy that never gets paid for good walking will eventually decide it is not worth the effort.

Also, do not expect perfection. Adolescent Goldendoodles around five to eight months often seem to forget everything they learned. It is a phase. Stay patient, go back to basics, and it comes back.

What to Expect

Most puppies show real progress within a few weeks of daily practice, but reliable loose leash walking can take a few months. Short, happy, consistent sessions beat long frustrating ones every time. If you are bringing home one of our puppies, we are always happy to talk through what you are seeing on your walks. Just reach out to us and we will help you troubleshoot.

A good walk with your dog is one of the best parts of having one. A little patience now means years of enjoying it together.

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