How to Stop Your Puppy From Biting and Nipping

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Goldendoodle puppy chewing on a soft teething toy

If your puppy’s teeth have found your hands, ankles, and favorite sweatshirt sleeve, welcome to the club. Every litter we raise goes through this. Eight weeks old, sharp little needle teeth, and a whole lot of enthusiasm. It’s normal, and the good news is it passes. We follow the positive reinforcement approach that trainers like Zak George teach, so none of this involves yelling, thumping noses, or holding mouths shut.

Why Puppies Bite in the First Place

Puppies explore with their mouths. They don’t have hands. They also learned from their littermates that a little chomp is how you play, and that a loud yelp means “ouch, too hard.” When Luna’s pups play, the squealing starts about two minutes in. That’s them teaching each other.

Then there’s teething. Between roughly 3 and 6 months, their baby teeth fall out and adult teeth come in. Gums are sore, and chewing feels good. So a puppy that nips more in the late afternoon is often just tired, sore, or both.

What Actually Works

Trade the hand for something better

Keep a toy in your pocket or within reach at all times. When teeth touch skin, calmly slide a toy into the puppy’s mouth instead. The second they chomp on the toy, say “yes” and praise them. You’re not saying “don’t bite.” You’re showing them what they’re allowed to bite, which is a much easier lesson for a puppy to understand.

We like a stuffable rubber toy for this. The KONG Puppy rubber toy is soft enough for baby teeth, and you can smear a little peanut butter inside or freeze it. It’s the thing we reach for when a puppy needs to settle down and has run out of other ideas. The medium size fits our mini Goldendoodles well.

Give sore gums something to work on

A puppy with nothing to chew will chew you. Rotate a few different textures so they don’t get bored. A freezable teething ring is great during the worst of it. Something like the Nylabone Puppy soothing ring goes in the freezer for twenty minutes, and the cold takes the edge off sore gums. Always watch your puppy with any chew, and toss anything that’s breaking into pieces.

Stop the game when the teeth come out

Puppies bite more when play gets wild. When teeth land on you, stop moving. Say “oops” in a calm voice, and stand up or turn away for ten or twenty seconds. No scolding, no big reaction. Then come back and play again. After a handful of repeats, most puppies work out that teeth end the fun. Say it the same way every time, and everyone in the house needs to do the same thing. Consistency matters more than anything else here.

Exercise first, then train

A tired puppy is a gentler puppy. A short walk or a few minutes of fetch before you sit down for training makes a huge difference. But be careful about the opposite problem. An overtired puppy gets mouthy and wild in the evening, and no amount of training will fix it. That’s a nap problem. Put them in the crate or a safe pen with a chew and let them reset.

For that, a puppy playpen is handy. It gives you a safe spot to park your puppy for a calm break while you cook dinner or answer the door, so you don’t end up in a wrestling match when everyone’s tired. We use the same idea with every litter.

A Few Things for the Kids

If you have kids at home, this part matters. Children squeal and run, and that makes a puppy want to chase and grab. Teach them to stand still like a tree and keep their hands tucked in when the puppy gets mouthy. Give the kids a toy to hold and toss, so the puppy learns that small humans mean fun games with toys, not nibbling on fingers. Always supervise, and when the puppy gets wound up, it’s time for a break in the pen.

What to Skip

Please don’t hold your puppy’s mouth closed, flick their nose, or yell. It can make them scared of hands, or turn biting into a game of chase. It also makes training harder later. Stick with calm, boring, and consistent.

Also, don’t encourage rough play with your hands, even when it seems cute at 9 weeks. A 9-week-old nipping your fingers is adorable. A 40-pound adolescent doing the same thing is not.

How Long Will It Last?

Most puppies calm down a lot by 4 to 6 months, once the adult teeth are in. If you keep at it every day, you’ll see progress within a couple of weeks. It won’t be a straight line. You’ll have good days and days when you wonder what happened. That’s normal too.

If your puppy seems aggressive, growls with stiff body language, or the biting is getting worse instead of better, talk to your vet or a certified trainer. Most of the time, though, it’s just a puppy being a puppy.

You’ve got this. And keep a toy handy.

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Featured image: Photo by April Walker on Unsplash

How Big Will My Mini Goldendoodle Get?

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Goldendoodle puppy sitting and looking up

“How big is my puppy going to get?” might be the question we hear most. Usually it comes while someone is holding an eight-week-old fluffball that fits in one arm. We get it. You want to know if the dog sleeping in your lap will still be a lap dog next year.

The honest answer is that nobody can promise an exact number. But you can get a pretty good idea, and here is how we think about it.

Start with the parents

This is the biggest clue by far. A Mini Goldendoodle comes from a smaller Poodle and a Golden Retriever, and the size of both parents matters. When you meet a breeder, ask what the mom and dad weigh. If they won’t tell you, that’s worth noticing. Puppies from smaller parents tend to stay smaller, and puppies from bigger parents tend to grow up bigger.

The general size ranges

Here is what we usually tell families:

  • Mini: roughly 15 to 30 pounds
  • Medium: roughly 30 to 45 pounds
  • Standard: roughly 45 to 75 pounds, sometimes more

Those are ranges, not guarantees. Within a single litter you can have a pup on the small end and a sibling that runs a few pounds heavier. Girls are often a little smaller than boys, but not always.

A rough rule of thumb

Many breeders and vets use a simple trick for smaller dogs. Weigh your puppy at 16 weeks and double it. That number gives you a ballpark for adult weight. A 12 pound puppy at four months will probably land somewhere around 24 pounds. It isn’t science, just a handy guess, and some dogs will surprise you.

Puppies also grow in spurts. You’ll see a week where they look all legs, then they fill out again. Most Mini Goldendoodles reach close to their full height by around 10 to 12 months and keep filling out for a while after that.

What doesn’t change the size

Feeding less won’t keep a puppy small, and feeding more won’t make a dog bigger than its genes planned. Overfeeding just makes a heavy dog, which is hard on young joints. Feed the amount your vet recommends and keep your puppy lean and active.

If size really matters for your home, an apartment or a small car or a family member who can’t handle a big dog, tell us up front. We’d rather help you pick the right puppy than have you surprised later. Reach out to Puppy Pals anytime and we’ll talk it through.

Featured image: Photo by Jacob Fletcher on Unsplash

Best Shampoos and Conditioners for Goldendoodle Coats

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Curly golden Goldendoodle puppy sitting in a sunlit garden

Bath day with a Goldendoodle is a bigger deal than it is with a short-haired dog. That curly or wavy coat is what we love about them, and it is also what turns into a tangled mess if the wrong product goes on it. We have raised a lot of puppies and bathed a lot of doodles, and the shampoo shelf at the pet store can be overwhelming. So here is what we look for, and the three products we point new puppy families toward.

What to look for in a Goldendoodle shampoo

A few things matter more than the label on the front.

  • Gentle cleanser. Doodle skin can be sensitive. Harsh soaps strip the coat and leave it dry and frizzy.
  • Something that helps with tangles. Curly and wavy coats mat easily, and a wet coat that is already knotted only gets worse in the tub.
  • Puppy friendly. If your pup is young, check the bottle for age guidance before you buy.
  • A scent you can live with. You will smell it on the couch for a day or two.

One more thing. Brush your dog out before the bath, every time. Water tightens a mat instead of loosening it. If you need a refresher on tools, we wrote up our favorites in Our Favorite Grooming Tools for Goldendoodles.

1. The shampoo: TropiClean Perfect Fur Curly & Wavy

This one is made with curly and wavy coats in mind, which is exactly what most of our Goldendoodles have. It uses a mild coconut-based cleanser and is meant to cut down on tangles and help the coat dry with some lift instead of lying flat and heavy.

Why we like it: it is a simple, no-fuss shampoo that does what it says. It is a good first pick if you want one bottle and do not want to think too hard about it. Find it here: TropiClean Perfect Fur Curly & Wavy Shampoo.

2. The all-in-one: We Love Doodles Shampoo, Conditioner & Detangler

If bath time already feels like a three-ring circus at your house, an all-in-one saves a step. This 16 oz bottle combines shampoo, conditioner and detangler, with jojoba oil, aloe vera, chamomile and calendula. It is sold as gentle enough for puppies.

Why we like it: wiggly puppies do not hold still for a long bath. Fewer bottles means a shorter bath and a happier pup. It will not replace a good brushing, but it helps loosen small knots as you go. Here is the link: We Love Doodles Shampoo, Conditioner & Detangler.

3. The between-bath helper: TropiClean Dog Detangler Spray

This is a leave-in spray you use on a dry or damp coat before you brush. It coats the tangles so the slicker brush slides through instead of pulling. It is the one we reach for in the middle of the week when a puppy has been rolling around outside and the ears are starting to knot up.

Why we like it: it makes daily brushing easier, and easy brushing is what keeps a doodle out of the groomer’s chair with a full shave-down. A spray will help with small tangles but will not rescue a heavily matted coat. For that, you want a professional. Grab it here: TropiClean Dog Detangler Spray.

What we skip

We stay away from human shampoo, even the gentle baby kind. Dog skin is less acidic than ours, and human products can leave a doodle dry and flaky. We also skip heavily perfumed bottles. If a shampoo smells strong enough to fill the room, it is probably going to bother your puppy’s nose and skin too. When in doubt, pick the plain option and let the brushing do the heavy lifting between baths.

A few bath day tips from our house

Use lukewarm water. Wet the whole coat first, all the way down to the skin, because doodle hair holds a lot of water. Work the shampoo in gently with your fingers instead of scrubbing in circles, which can tangle things up. Rinse longer than you think you need to. Leftover soap is the number one cause of itchy skin we hear about.

Dry the coat well, too. A damp doodle left to air dry can end up with tight little mats behind the ears and under the legs. A towel first, then a blow dryer on a cool or low setting while you brush, works best. Go slow and keep treats handy so the dryer stays a good thing in your puppy’s mind.

How often to bathe? For most of our dogs, every four to six weeks is plenty, with brushing in between. If your dog has skin trouble or a medical coat condition, ask your vet before you change products.

Got a favorite shampoo that works wonders on your doodle? We are always happy to hear what is working for other families.

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Featured image: Photo by Taylor on Unsplash

The Puppy Zoomies Are Normal (Here’s Why)

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If you have ever watched a puppy go from sound asleep to a full sprint around the living room in about two seconds, you have seen the zoomies. Ears flat, back end tucked, eyes a little wild. It looks like something is wrong. It isn’t. This is one of the most normal things a puppy does.

Vets have a fancier name for it, frenetic random activity periods, but “zoomies” says it better. It’s a burst of pent-up energy that has to go somewhere. Puppies run on a short fuse, and when the tank gets too full, out it comes.

When they usually happen

You’ll start to notice a pattern. Zoomies tend to show up:

  • Right after a bath or a good towel rub
  • When they first come out of the crate
  • In the evening, when the whole house gets a little louder
  • After a potty trip, once they are back inside
  • When you get home and they are thrilled to see you

Our Goldendoodles are no different. Luna and Macie are grown and still get them now and then, usually after a bath or when the kids start running through the house. The puppies just do it with a lot less dignity.

What to do while it’s happening

Mostly, get out of the way. Seriously. Make sure the path is clear of anything breakable or slippery, and let them run it out. Hardwood floors with socks-on-ice puppy paws can end badly, so if you can steer them to a rug or the yard, do that.

Don’t chase. Chasing turns it into a game and winds them up more. If you need them to stop, walk away or turn sideways and call them in a happy voice. When they come to you, reward them with a treat or some calm petting. They learn that coming back is worth it.

And don’t scold. They aren’t being bad. They’re being puppies.

Cutting down on the wild ones

If the zoomies feel nonstop, the fix is usually more outlet earlier in the day. A walk, a little sniffing time, a short game of fetch or tug before the evening rush. A puppy with a good outlet has less to burn off at 9pm. Rest matters too. An overtired puppy often gets more wild, not less, so make sure naps are actually happening.

When to ask your vet

Zoomies on their own are healthy. If your puppy seems frantic all the time, can’t settle even when tired, or the running comes with yelping, limping, or odd behavior, give your vet a call. That’s rare, but it’s worth a quick check.

For almost every family, though, the answer is simple. Clear the floor, let them go, and enjoy the show. It’s one of the funniest parts of having a puppy.

Puppy Pals Team

3 Commands Every Puppy Should Know by 12 Weeks

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People ask us all the time what they should teach their puppy first. Sit, down, stay, roll over, shake? Honestly, you can skip most of that for now. If your puppy knows three simple things by 12 weeks, life at home gets a lot easier.

1. Look At Me

This one is our favorite, and it’s the one most people forget. Hold a small treat near your puppy’s nose, then slowly bring it up to your eyes. The second your puppy glances at your face, say “Yes” and give the treat. That’s it.

Why it matters: a puppy who will look at you can be redirected from almost anything. A squirrel, a visitor, the neighbor’s dog. You get their attention back first, then you can ask for something else.

2. Sit

Sit is the old standby for a reason. Hold a treat at your puppy’s nose and slowly move it back over their head. Their rear end drops as their nose follows the treat. Say “Yes” the moment it touches the floor.

Don’t push on their back, and don’t repeat the word over and over. Say “sit” one time and wait. Puppies figure out fast that the word only counts once. A sit at the door before it opens or before a meal turns into good manners without you even trying.

3. Leave It

Put a treat in your closed fist and let your puppy sniff and nibble at your hand. They will paw and lick, and that’s fine. The moment they back off, even a little, say “Yes” and give them a different treat from your other hand. Not the one in your fist.

After a few days they’ll start backing off as soon as they hear the words. This is the command that keeps socks, dropped chicken bones and mystery stuff on the sidewalk out of your puppy’s mouth. With Goldendoodles, who love to carry everything around, you will use it daily.

A few tips that make it stick

  • Keep sessions to about five minutes. Puppies tire out fast.
  • Do a little exercise first. A tired puppy learns better than a wild one.
  • Use tiny soft treats so you aren’t filling them up.
  • Reward the instant they do it right, not three seconds later.
  • Stay calm and cheerful. If they get it wrong, just reset and try again, no scolding.

Don’t worry if your puppy isn’t perfect at 12 weeks. They’re babies. If you practice a few minutes a day, these three will be solid before you know it, and they give you a great base for everything else down the road.

Puppy Pals Team

Leash Training Your Goldendoodle: How to Stop the Pulling

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Goldendoodle puppy walking on a leash outdoors

If you have a Goldendoodle puppy, you have probably already had the walk where your arm feels two inches longer by the end. We have had that walk with every one of our dogs. We follow the positive reinforcement approach that trainers like Zak George teach, and it has worked for Luna, Macie, and every puppy we have sent home. Loose leash walking is a skill, not a personality trait, and puppies learn it the same way they learn everything else: by figuring out what gets rewarded.

Why Goldendoodles Pull in the First Place

Pulling is not your puppy being stubborn. Walking at your speed is slow and boring for a dog. Everything out there smells amazing, and the fastest way to get to the next smell is to lean into the leash. If leaning works, they lean harder. Every time you follow a pulling puppy to the thing they wanted, you just taught them that pulling is how the walk works.

Goldendoodles are smart and eager to please, which is great news. It also means they pick up bad habits just as quickly as good ones. The trick is to make the good habit more rewarding than the bad one, and to start early.

Start Inside, Not on the Sidewalk

Do not make your first lesson a walk around the block. Start in the living room or the backyard, where there is nothing exciting to pull toward. Clip the leash on, hold a few small treats, and just walk around the house. Any time your puppy is next to you with a loose leash, say "yes" and hand over a treat right at your leg. Keep it fast and happy.

Five minutes is plenty for a young puppy. Their attention runs out quickly, and you want to stop while they are still having fun. A tired puppy also learns better, so a quick game of fetch before the lesson takes the edge off the wiggles.

The Stop-and-Wait Rule

This is the one thing we ask every new family to practice. The moment the leash goes tight, you stop walking. Stand still like a tree. No yanking, no scolding, no dragging them back. Just stop.

When your puppy turns around to see why the fun stopped, or the leash goes slack even for a second, say "yes" and walk forward again. Pulling makes the walk stop. A loose leash makes the walk go. Puppies figure this out surprisingly fast, though it will feel slow for the first week or two. You might cover half a block in ten minutes. That is normal, and it pays off.

If your puppy keeps surging ahead, try turning and walking the other way. Reward them when they catch up and trot along next to you. You are teaching them that staying near you is where the good stuff happens.

Gear That Makes It Easier

You do not need fancy equipment, but a few basics help a lot. For a growing puppy we like a Best Pet Supplies Voyager Step-In Air Harness. It is light, easy to get on a wiggly puppy, and spreads pressure across the chest instead of the neck. We wrote more about harness choices in our leash and harness guide if you want the full breakdown.

For the leash itself, we like a simple six foot leash that is easy on your hands. The Taglory Rope Dog Leash is what we reach for. Skip the retractable leashes while you are training. They teach a puppy that pulling gets them more line, which is the exact opposite of what you want.

And then there are treats. Training treats should be small and smelly enough to compete with the outside world. We like Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Beef Bites for walks because they are tiny, light enough to carry in a pocket, and most puppies will do almost anything for them. Save the really good ones for the hard moments, like walking past another dog.

Handling Distractions

Once your puppy is walking nicely at home, take the lesson to the front yard, then the quiet street, then the park. Each new place is like starting over a little bit, so expect some pulling when the setting gets more exciting. Go back to short sessions and higher value treats.

When you see a distraction coming, like a squirrel, a bike, or another dog, get your puppy’s attention before they lock on. Ask for a quick "look at me," reward it, and keep moving. If they are already pulling hard, calmly turn and walk away until they settle down, then try again from a greater distance.

Common Mistakes

Most of the trouble we see comes from a few things. Walks are too long too soon, and a young puppy gets tired and falls apart. Families give inconsistent rules, so one person lets the puppy pull and another does not. Or someone skips the treats once the puppy seems to be getting it. Keep rewarding for a long time. You can slowly space them out, but a puppy that never gets paid for good walking will eventually decide it is not worth the effort.

Also, do not expect perfection. Adolescent Goldendoodles around five to eight months often seem to forget everything they learned. It is a phase. Stay patient, go back to basics, and it comes back.

What to Expect

Most puppies show real progress within a few weeks of daily practice, but reliable loose leash walking can take a few months. Short, happy, consistent sessions beat long frustrating ones every time. If you are bringing home one of our puppies, we are always happy to talk through what you are seeing on your walks. Just reach out to us and we will help you troubleshoot.

A good walk with your dog is one of the best parts of having one. A little patience now means years of enjoying it together.

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How to Tell If Your Goldendoodle Will Be Curly or Wavy

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Goldendoodle puppy with curly coat

We get asked this one all the time, usually from a family who just put down a deposit and is already imagining what their puppy will look like grown up. Will she be curly? Will he have those loose Golden Retriever waves? Honestly, with an 8 week old F1b puppy, it’s part science and part educated guessing.

Here’s what we’ve learned after raising a lot of litters.

The coat a puppy ends up with comes down to genetics from both parents, but with our F1b litters, that’s a Goldendoodle crossed back with a Poodle, the Poodle side usually wins out. Most of our puppies land somewhere between wavy and curly, and it’s pretty rare to get a truly flat coat in an F1b litter. If you do, it just means more Golden genes showed up in that particular puppy.

A few clues we look for early on. Puppies with tighter curls around their ears and the base of their tail as babies almost always end up curly adults. If the coat looks looser and more like waves all over, especially down the back, that puppy usually settles into a wavy coat. The texture also tends to feel different even before you can see much of a difference. Curly coat puppies feel a little more like a wire brush, wavy coat puppies feel softer and silkier.

We also watch what happens around 4 to 6 months. This is when a lot of puppies go through a coat change, sometimes called the “puppy uglies.” The soft baby fluff starts to fall out and the adult coat comes in underneath. This is usually when it becomes obvious what you’re working with. A puppy that looked pretty straight at 8 weeks can suddenly show a lot more curl once that adult coat is in.

One thing that surprises new owners: coat type does not really change how hypoallergenic a dog is. Curly and wavy coats from an F1b litter are both considered low shedding and easier on allergies than a flat coat. So if that’s your main concern, don’t stress too much over curly versus wavy. Either one should serve you well.

What does change based on coat type is grooming. Curly coats mat faster and need brushing more often, usually every couple of days, plus a trim every 6 to 8 weeks. Wavy coats are a little more forgiving, you can usually stretch brushing to a few times a week without things getting out of hand.

If you’re picking a puppy from a litter and coat type matters to you, ask your breeder what they’re seeing at the time you visit. We always tell people what we’re noticing, curl pattern around the ears, how the coat feels, what the parents and grandparents looked like. It’s not a guarantee, but it gets you pretty close.

And honestly, once they’re home, most families stop caring which one they ended up with. A good Goldendoodle is a good Goldendoodle, curls or no curls.

Leashes and Harnesses We Recommend for Goldendoodles

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Goldendoodle puppy on a leash and harness outside

One of the questions we get asked most by families picking up a puppy is what leash and harness they actually need. There are so many options out there that it gets overwhelming fast, so we wanted to share what we recommend to our own families based on what has worked well for our dogs and the puppies we have raised over the years.

A Goldendoodle puppy grows fast. What fits at 10 weeks will not fit at 6 months, and their necks and chests are still developing, so we lean toward harnesses over collar walking for anything that involves real leash pressure. A harness spreads the pressure across the chest instead of the throat, which matters a lot when you are working on leash manners with a wiggly puppy who has not learned to stop pulling yet.

We have watched a lot of new puppy owners walk out of the pet store with the first harness they saw on the shelf, only to come back a few weeks later frustrated that their dog is still dragging them down the street. Most of the time it is not the puppy’s fault, it is the equipment. A back-clip harness lets a dog pull with their whole body weight using the strongest muscles they have, which is exactly what you do not want while you are still teaching loose leash walking. Getting the right gear from the start saves you a lot of headaches later.

We also get asked whether a puppy really needs a harness at all, or if a collar is enough. Our answer is both, just for different jobs. The collar holds ID tags and rabies tags and stays on all the time. The harness is what you clip the leash to for actual walks, hikes, and training sessions. Trying to make one piece of gear do both jobs is where most of the pulling and coughing problems start.

Best Puppy Harness for Growing Bodies

For the early months, we like a step-in style harness because there is no fussing with getting it over the head, which most puppies hate. The Best Pet Supplies Voyager Step-In Air Harness is lightweight and breathable, with a hook and loop fastener plus a buckle so it stays secure even when your puppy decides to try out their new zoomies in the backyard. We like this one because it is affordable enough that you do not feel bad replacing it in a few months once your puppy has grown out of it.

As your puppy grows and you are working seriously on not pulling, look for a harness with both a front and back clip, not just a back clip. Clipping the leash to the front ring redirects your dog back toward you instead of letting them use their full chest strength to drag you down the sidewalk, which lines up with the positive, no-force training approach we follow with our own dogs. It is worth sizing up into a sturdier harness like this once your puppy grows out of the step-in style above.

Best Leash for Everyday Walks and Training

For the leash itself, we are not picky about brand as long as it is sturdy, comfortable in your hand, and visible if you are out early or after dark. The Taglory Rope Dog Leash has held up well for us. It is climbing rope style, so it can handle a strong pull if your puppy suddenly spots a squirrel, and the reflective threads run through the whole length instead of just being painted on, which actually makes a difference at dusk.

Best Collar for ID and Everyday Wear

We still recommend every puppy wear a well fitted collar with ID tags at all times, even if you do most of your walking on a harness. The Ladoogo Reflective Dog Collar is padded with soft neoprene so it will not rub against your puppy’s neck, has a sturdy metal D-ring for tags, and comes with a bonus leash, which is a nice bonus if you need a backup for car rides or vet visits.

A few things we have found matter more than brand name. Always check the sizing chart before you buy since Goldendoodles range so widely in adult size depending on whether they are mini, medium, or standard. Recheck the fit every few weeks while your puppy is still growing, you should be able to fit two fingers under any strap. And if you are working on loose leash walking, a front-clip harness makes the process so much easier than fighting a collar.

We also recommend clipping the leash to your own belt loop or waistband when your puppy is out of the crate and you are home with them, not just on walks. Keeping them attached to you gives you a chance to catch the early signs they need to go potty and it keeps them from wandering off and getting into something they should not. It sounds like a small thing but it makes a real difference in how fast house training clicks for a lot of families.

Whatever gear you land on, give your puppy a little time to get used to wearing it before you expect a calm walk. Let them wear the harness around the house for a few minutes at a time first, with treats and praise, so it feels normal rather than something being forced on them. A puppy who is comfortable in their gear settles into walks so much faster than one who is distracted by a strange new feeling around their chest.

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The Best Thing About Goldendoodle Puppies? The Smell.

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Goldendoodle puppy being held close and nuzzled

People ask us all the time what makes Goldendoodle puppies so hard to resist. Everyone says the same things first. Soft fur. Big eyes. That floppy, uncoordinated puppy walk before they figure out where their legs are. All true. But there’s one thing almost nobody mentions until they’ve actually held one, and once you notice it, you can’t unnotice it.

The smell.

We’re not talking about the “wet dog” smell, or the smell right after a bath with whatever shampoo we happen to be using that week. We mean that warm, sleepy, slightly sweet puppy breath and puppy fur smell that shows up somewhere around week three or four and just… exists. It’s a real thing. Ask anyone who’s raised a litter and they’ll know exactly what we mean without us explaining further.

In our house, it’s become a running joke. Someone will walk into the puppy room, pick one up, take a big breath, and just go quiet for a second. Our kids do it. Visitors do it, even when they’re trying to play it cool and act like they came over for something other than puppy snuggles. Grown adults who haven’t held a puppy in years will bury their face in a pup’s neck and just say “oh” like they forgot this was a thing that existed in the world.

We’ve never been able to describe it well to someone who hasn’t smelled it. Milky, maybe. Warm. A little like fresh laundry if fresh laundry could also be alive and wiggling. Whatever it is, it doesn’t last. By the time a puppy is 10 or 12 weeks old and heading off to their new family, it starts to fade into a more grown-up dog smell. Which honestly makes us treasure those first few weeks even more.

If you’re picking up a new puppy soon, do yourself a favor and actually notice it. Don’t just admire the puppy from a normal adult-height distance. Get down there, hold them close, and take it in. It sounds silly written out like this, but we promise you’ll understand the second you do it.

And if you’re a past Puppy Pals family reading this and nodding along, you already know. That smell doesn’t fully leave your memory either. Every time we start a new litter, it takes us right back to the last one.

Small thing. Doesn’t show up in any breed description or puppy listing. But it might be one of our favorite parts of this whole job.

What to Feed Your Goldendoodle Puppy (And How Much)

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Goldendoodle puppy eating from a bowl

One of the first questions we get from families picking up a new Goldendoodle puppy is: “What should we feed them?” It’s a great question, and honestly one of the most important ones you can ask. What your puppy eats during those first few months sets the foundation for their health and energy for years to come.

We’ve raised a lot of puppies here, and we’ve learned a lot along the way about what works and what doesn’t. Here’s what we do and what we recommend to every family that takes home one of our Goldendoodles.

Start With Puppy-Specific Food

This seems obvious, but it’s worth saying clearly: puppies need puppy food, not adult food. Puppy formulas have more protein, more calories, and more of the specific nutrients growing bodies need, like DHA for brain development and higher calcium for bone growth.

When you’re looking at puppy food options, here’s what we tell families to look for:

  • Real meat as the first ingredient (chicken, turkey, beef, lamb, salmon)
  • “Complete and balanced” on the label, which means it meets AAFCO standards
  • “For puppies” or “all life stages” on the label
  • Avoid foods where corn, wheat, or “meat by-products” are in the first three ingredients

A lot of families ask about grain-free food. Honestly, unless your puppy has a diagnosed grain allergy (which is uncommon), there’s no proven benefit to grain-free, and there’s been some concern from the FDA about a possible link between grain-free diets and heart disease in dogs. We stick with quality grain-inclusive options and feel confident in that choice.

How Much to Feed Your Goldendoodle Puppy

Every food has a feeding chart on the bag, and that’s your starting point. But keep in mind those charts are ranges, and every puppy is a little different. The real measure of whether your puppy is eating the right amount is their body condition, not the number on the scale.

Here’s a simple way to check: you should be able to feel your puppy’s ribs easily when you run your hands along their sides, but they shouldn’t be visible from across the room. If you’re pressing hard to find the ribs, they’re too heavy. If you can see them clearly, they need more food.

For a general starting point with mini and medium Goldendoodles:

  • 8-12 weeks: About 1/3 to 1/2 cup per meal, three times a day
  • 3-6 months: About 1/2 to 3/4 cup per meal, three times a day
  • 6-12 months: Transition to twice a day, increasing the amount as they grow

These are starting points. Follow the feeding guide on your specific food and adjust based on how your puppy looks and feels. When in doubt, check with your vet at the next appointment.

Stick to a Schedule

Free feeding (leaving food out all day) might seem easier, but it actually makes a lot of puppy life harder. Predictable meals mean predictable potty needs, which is huge when you’re in the middle of house training. When you know your puppy just ate, you know a potty trip is coming in the next 20 minutes or so.

Our standard recommendation for new puppies is three meals a day: morning, midday, and early evening. That last meal should be a couple hours before bedtime so their little digestive system has time to do its thing before you put them in their crate for the night. After six months, most puppies do just fine on two meals a day.

Treats Count As Calories

This one surprises a lot of new puppy owners. Training treats are essential, especially during those first few months when you’re working on sit, stay, crate training, and potty basics. But they’re food, and they add up fast.

We use high-value training treats like Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Beef Bites for new puppies because they’re bite-sized, soft enough to break into even smaller pieces, and dogs absolutely love them. For everyday training sessions, we also like Purina Pro Plan Training Treats, which are smaller and lower calorie, so you can use more of them without throwing off your puppy’s diet.

A good rule of thumb: treats should make up no more than 10% of your puppy’s daily calories. On heavy training days, reduce their meal portions slightly to balance it out. That way you’re not accidentally overfeeding a puppy who’s already eating three full meals.

Fresh Water, Always

Sounds basic, but we see it often enough to mention it: always have fresh water available. Puppies dehydrate fast, especially when they’re active and growing. We clean our water bowls daily, because bacteria build up fast in standing water.

One tip we give to families who are working on nighttime crate training: it’s okay to pick up the water bowl an hour or so before bedtime to reduce the chances of a middle-of-the-night accident. Just make sure they get a good drink earlier in the evening.

When to Switch to Adult Food

Mini and medium Goldendoodles reach their adult size somewhere around 12 months. Standard Goldendoodles take a little longer, often up to 18 months. A good general rule is to wait until they’re close to their adult weight before transitioning to an adult formula.

When you’re ready to switch, do it gradually over about a week. Start with 75% puppy food and 25% adult food, then slowly shift the ratio until they’re fully on adult food. A fast switch can cause stomach upset, especially in puppies with more sensitive digestion.

What to Avoid

A few things we see puppy owners give their new dogs that can cause real problems:

  • Table scraps: Some human foods are toxic to dogs (grapes, onions, xylitol in peanut butter, chocolate). Even harmless foods like cooked chicken or plain rice can create picky eating habits if given regularly.
  • Switching foods too often: If you need to change food brands, do it slowly. Frequent changes cause upset stomachs and loose stools.
  • Overfeeding: Puppies will eat as much as you put in front of them. Extra weight puts stress on developing joints, which is especially important in larger Goldendoodles.

From Our Experience

We send every puppy home with a small bag of the food they’ve been eating here, along with feeding instructions specific to their size and age. We do this so there’s no guessing and no abrupt food change during an already big transition week for your puppy. When you’re ready to switch to a different brand, just do it gradually and your puppy’s tummy will thank you.

Feeding time is also a great training opportunity. Having your puppy sit and wait before their bowl goes down, or hand-feeding a portion of their meal, builds manners and a strong relationship between you and your dog from day one. We’ve found it makes a real difference, especially with the more eager and food-motivated Goldendoodles (which is most of them).

If you have questions about what we feed our dogs here or what we recommend for your specific puppy, reach out. We’re always happy to talk through it.

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