Best Dog Beds for Goldendoodles — From Puppy to Adult

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Goldendoodle puppy curled up in a cozy dog bed

When we brought our first Goldendoodle puppy home, we made the classic mistake of buying one really nice bed upfront. It was destroyed in about two weeks.

After raising multiple litters and watching our own dogs grow from tiny pups to full-grown adults, we have a pretty good handle on what actually works at different life stages. The truth is, what your puppy needs at eight weeks old is nothing like what a two-year-old Goldendoodle needs. And buying the wrong bed at the wrong stage just wastes money.

Here’s what we actually use and recommend.

A Quick Note About Life Stages

Mini and medium Goldendoodles go through some pretty distinct phases when it comes to beds:

  • Puppies (8 weeks to about 6 months): Chewing is the main concern. Accidents happen. Easy to clean and hard to destroy matters more than comfort right now.
  • Adolescents (6 to 18 months): Still some chewing, but they’re bigger and starting to settle. You can start introducing something nicer, but durability still counts.
  • Adults (18 months and up): Time to invest in real comfort. Orthopedic support starts to matter, especially for dogs who run, jump, and rough-house a lot.

Our Top Picks

For Puppies: K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Crate Bed

This is what we tell every new Goldendoodle owner to start with. It fits inside a 36-inch wire crate, which is what we recommend for Mini Goldendoodles, and it is essentially impossible for a puppy to destroy. Accidents wipe right off.

The fabric is what K9 Ballistics calls “ballistic nylon” and it lives up to the name. Our pups have gone at it pretty hard and it just does not give. The edges are reinforced and there’s no stuffing to pull out, which is half the battle with puppies who want to shred anything soft.

It’s not the coziest thing in the world, but that’s kind of the point. Once your pup is past the destruction phase, you graduate them to something better. Think of this as the starter bed that actually survives.

K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Crate Bed (fits 36-inch crates, for medium dogs)

For Adults Who Need Support: PetFusion Ultimate Dog Bed

This is the one we use for our adult dogs. It has a 4-inch solid memory foam base, a waterproof liner underneath the cover, and a cover that unzips and goes straight into the washing machine.

For Goldendoodles who are active dogs, the joint support really does make a difference over time. Goldendoodles are athletic and they put a lot of mileage on their joints. A mattress-style bed with real foam under them is a lot better than one of those thin pillow beds that goes flat in three months.

The medium size works well for Mini Goldendoodles and smaller mids. If you have a bigger dog in the 40 to 50 pound range, go large. The cover is soft, the foam holds its shape, and it just lasts. We’ve had ours for a couple of years without problems.

PetFusion Ultimate Dog Bed (orthopedic memory foam, multiple sizes)

For Dogs Who Love to Lean: Furhaven Sofa-Style Orthopedic Bed

Some dogs just love having something to rest their head on. If your Goldendoodle is always propping up against the arm of the couch or leaning into you, they’re a bolster dog, and this is the bed for them.

The Furhaven sofa-style has raised edges on three sides that give them that feeling of being nestled in, plus an egg crate foam base that is genuinely supportive. The cover comes off and washes easily, and the plush fabric holds up well to normal adult dog use.

We like the large size for most of our Goldendoodles. It fits in a corner of the bedroom nicely and looks decent in the house, which matters when dog beds are basically furniture at this point.

Furhaven Plush Sofa-Style Orthopedic Dog Bed (bolster style, large, for dogs up to 55 lbs)

What to Skip

We have tried a lot of beds over the years and here is what doesn’t work for Goldendoodles specifically.

Thin pillow beds under $20. They go flat fast. Your dog ends up sleeping on basically a sheet of fabric over the floor. Save your money.

Beds without removable covers. Goldendoodles track in mud and water, and they shed, even the low-shedding ones. If you can’t throw the cover in the washer, it’s going to smell bad in a month.

Beds sized for “large breeds” based on weight alone. The weight chart might say your 35-pound Goldendoodle fits a medium, but Goldendoodles are long dogs. Always check the actual dimensions and give them room to stretch out.

Our Recommendation

Start with the K9 Ballistics armored crate bed during the puppy and adolescent phase. Once your Goldendoodle is reliably past the chewing stage, treat them to the PetFusion for flat sleepers or the Furhaven if they’re a leaner. That’s the progression that actually works.

You don’t need to spend a fortune on a puppy bed. You do need to invest a little when they’re grown and ready for the real thing. Your adult Goldendoodle will thank you for it.

If you have questions about what size bed to get based on your specific puppy, reach out anytime. We’re happy to help!

Puppy Pals Team

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Our Morning Routine With 3 Goldendoodles

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Goldendoodle dogs on a morning walk

Some mornings run like clockwork. Others, not so much. But with three Goldendoodles in the house, every morning has a rhythm to it whether you planned one or not.

It starts before my alarm goes off. Macie sleeps closest to the door and she’s figured out that if she nudges it open and pokes me in the face, I’ll get up faster. Luna waits more patiently on her bed but the moment she hears me moving, she’s up and spinning. Our big guy just watches from across the room until there’s a leash involved, then he’s suddenly very interested in whatever’s happening.

We head outside first thing, before anything else. All three, out the back door. This is non-negotiable. Coffee comes after. We learned pretty quickly that trying to sneak a cup in before letting them out was a bad idea on multiple levels.

After the backyard trip we come back in and do breakfast. We feed everyone in their own spots because otherwise things get competitive in a way that’s not worth dealing with at 6:30 in the morning. Each dog gets their bowl and we wait until they’re all sitting before anyone eats. It’s the one routine we’ve held consistent since they were puppies and it genuinely makes the whole thing calmer.

Then we do a quick walk while they digest. This part honestly became one of my favorite parts of the day. There’s something about walking three Goldendoodles through the neighborhood in the early morning, before the world gets loud, that just resets everything. People wave. Kids want to pet them. Macie prances like she’s in a parade.

By the time we’re back, everyone’s ready to settle. The dogs find their spots, I finally make coffee, and the day actually begins.

I get asked a lot about what it’s like having multiple dogs. Honestly it’s more chaos than having one, but it’s also so much more joy. They keep each other company. They make each other braver. And they’ve turned our morning routine into something I genuinely look forward to every single day.

If you’re thinking about adding a second dog to your home, the morning walk together is one of the first things that’ll feel almost magical. It takes a few weeks to find the rhythm, but once you do, you won’t want to give it up.

Puppy Pals Team

Socializing Your Goldendoodle Puppy — The First 16 Weeks

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Goldendoodle puppy exploring outdoors during socialization

The first 16 weeks of your Goldendoodle’s life are the most important stretch for socialization. I know that sounds intense, but it’s true. Puppies go through a critical window where new experiences actually shape how they’ll react to the world for the rest of their lives. Miss it and you’re working uphill forever. Get it right and you end up with a dog that rolls with whatever life throws at them.

We’ve raised a lot of litters here at Puppy Pals, and the families that do this well consistently have the happiest, most confident adult dogs. Here’s what we’ve learned.

Why the First 16 Weeks Matter So Much

Puppies have a socialization window that starts to close around 12 weeks and mostly shuts by 16. During this time, their brains are literally wired by what they experience. New people, sounds, textures, and situations they encounter now get filed as “normal.” Things they miss can become scary or anxiety-provoking later.

This doesn’t mean you need to take your puppy to a fireworks show at 8 weeks old. It means consistent, gentle, positive exposure to as many different things as you can manage.

We follow the positive reinforcement approach that trainers like Zak George teach, which means every new experience should end with your puppy feeling good about it. Treats are your best tool here.

What to Expose Them To (and How)

Think in categories: people, sounds, surfaces, animals, and handling.

People: Men with beards, kids running and yelling, people in hats or sunglasses, elderly people with canes, delivery drivers, teenagers on bikes. The more variety, the better. Have people offer your puppy a treat when they first meet. You want your dog to see strangers as a source of good things, not potential threats.

Sounds: Vacuum cleaners, lawn mowers, thunderstorms, kids playing loudly, traffic, doorbells, appliances. Start these at low volume or from a distance. Let your puppy investigate or ignore them, then offer a treat. Never force them toward something that’s scaring them.

Surfaces: Grass, gravel, tile, hardwood, stairs, carpet, sand, metal grates. Some puppies are surprisingly confident about all of these. Others get spooked by a single new texture. Just introduce it calmly, let them explore at their own pace.

Handling: This one gets skipped a lot. Get your puppy used to having their paws touched, ears cleaned, mouth opened, nails handled, and collar grabbed. Do this gently and pair it with treats every single time. Your vet and groomer will thank you later. You’ll thank yourself too.

Other animals: If you have cats, other dogs, or kids at home, you’re already ahead. If not, find friends or neighbors who do.

High-Value Treats Are Your Secret Weapon

For socialization to work, your puppy needs a really good reason to feel positive about the experience. Regular kibble doesn’t cut it when you’re introducing something new. We keep a pouch of soft, high-value training treats in our pocket during any new experience, because the reward needs to come fast and it needs to feel worth it.

We’ve had great results with Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Beef Bites. They’re small enough that you can use a lot of them without overfeeding, soft enough to eat quickly between moments, and puppies go absolutely crazy for them. That kind of excited reaction is exactly what you want when you’re building positive associations with something new.

The Safe Base They Always Need

Here’s something a lot of new owners don’t think about. Socialization works best when your puppy has a reliable safe place to retreat to. If they get overwhelmed, they need somewhere familiar and calm to decompress.

That’s actually where crate training and socialization work together. A puppy that’s comfortable in their crate has a retreat whenever the world feels like too much. We use the MidWest iCrate Double Door for all our puppies here. It comes with a divider panel so it grows with them, and the two-door setup makes it easy to position in different spots around the house.

When your puppy first comes home, everything in your house is brand new to them. Having a crate they associate with calm and safety actually gives them more confidence to explore, not less. Think of it as their home base.

Managing the Overwhelm

Signs your puppy is getting overwhelmed: yawning repeatedly, licking their lips, trying to move away, or going flat on the ground. These are stress signals, not stubbornness or bad behavior.

If you see these, calmly end the session. No big fuss, no comforting in a worried voice (that actually tells them something is wrong). Just remove them from the situation and let them rest. A Kong stuffed with a little peanut butter in their crate works really well here. It gives them something to focus on while they decompress. Freeze it the night before and it’ll keep them busy even longer.

A Schedule That Actually Works

Aim for three to five new experiences per week, not three to five per day. You’re not trying to cram everything in. You’re building a pattern.

Keep sessions short. Ten minutes of active socialization is plenty for a young puppy. End while things are still going well. If a session goes sideways, no big deal. Come back to the same experience in a day or two at a lower intensity.

The families who later tell us their Goldendoodle is nervous around strangers or reactive on leash almost always had a gap in their socialization window. It happens. Life gets busy. But if you’re reading this while your puppy is still young, you have the time to do this right.

The payoff is real. A well-socialized Goldendoodle is one of the best dogs you can own. Confident, adaptable, friendly with pretty much everyone they meet. That’s worth a lot of fifteen-minute treat sessions in the front yard.

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What “F1b” Actually Means (Plain English)

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Goldendoodle puppy with wavy coat

We get asked about this one all the time. “What does F1b mean?” It’s on our site, it’s in every Goldendoodle listing, and most people have no idea what they’re looking at. Here’s what it actually means.

What’s an F1?

An F1 Goldendoodle is a first-generation cross. Mom is a Golden Retriever, dad is a Poodle (or the other way around). Straight 50/50 mix.

F1s are great dogs, but the coats can be unpredictable. Some pups come out more Golden Retriever, with a flatter coat and some shedding. Others lean Poodle, with a curlier coat and very little shedding. You really can’t tell which way it’ll go until they’re older.

So what’s the “b”?

The b stands for backcross. An F1b Goldendoodle has one F1 Goldendoodle parent and one Poodle parent. That puts them at roughly 75% Poodle genetics.

The result? Wavier or curlier coats, much less shedding, and a more consistent look from puppy to puppy.

Why do we breed F1b?

Honestly, it comes down to families and allergies. We get so many calls from people who love Goldendoodles but have someone at home who reacts to dogs. F1b gives us a much better chance of placing a puppy that actually works for those families.

A quick note though: no dog is truly hypoallergenic. The reaction most people have is to proteins in dander and saliva, not just loose fur. But lower-shedding coats do make a real difference for a lot of families, and that’s something we’ve seen firsthand over the years.

Does it change the personality?

Not in our experience. The Goldendoodle sweetness comes through at every generation. Our puppies from Luna and Macie are consistently friendly, curious, and quick to bond with their families. That Golden Retriever warmth is still there, even at 25%.

What about F2 or F2b?

They exist, but we don’t breed them. F2 (two F1 parents together) reintroduces coat unpredictability, which is the whole thing we’re trying to avoid. Most breeders focused on low-shedding, consistent coats stick with F1b. So do we.

So now when you see F1b in a listing, you’ll know exactly what it means: a puppy with strong Poodle coat genetics and all the warmth of a Golden Retriever still shining through.

Questions about our upcoming litters or our specific dogs? We’d love to hear from you.

Puppy Pals Team

Why Your Goldendoodle Follows You to the Bathroom

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Goldendoodle puppy following owner

If you’ve recently brought home a Goldendoodle puppy, you’ve probably noticed something adorable (and slightly awkward): your pup follows you everywhere. Into the kitchen. To the garage. And yes, straight into the bathroom.

We get asked about this all the time, and honestly? It’s one of our favorite parts of puppyhood. Here’s why it happens—and why it’s actually a sign of a healthy bond.

They’re Not Trying to Be Creepy

Your Goldendoodle isn’t following you into the bathroom out of mischief or boredom (well, not just that). For puppies, their mom or littermates were always nearby. When you bring them home, you become their safe place. Following you everywhere—even to the bathroom—is their way of saying, “I’m safe when I’m with you.”

Separation anxiety isn’t usually the culprit with young puppies; it’s just pack behavior. They’re dogs, and dogs are social animals. Being near you = security.

It’s Actually Good News

Believe it or not, this constant shadowing is a compliment. Your puppy trusts you. They feel secure with you. That foundation of trust makes training easier down the road and sets them up for confidence as adults.

Of course, you’ll eventually teach them to entertain themselves and respect closed doors (thank you, puppy gates and crates). But there’s no harm in enjoying this phase while it lasts.

When It Gets Old, Here’s What to Do

If the bathroom buddy phase is testing your patience, it’s totally fine to gently encourage independence. A few ideas:

  • Puppy pads or a bed right outside the door — they stay close but learn to entertain themselves for a few minutes
  • A stuffed Kong — something engaging to focus on while you have a moment alone
  • Crate time during the day — structured alone time teaches them that separation isn’t scary

The goal isn’t to make them feel abandoned; it’s to help them feel confident even when you’re out of sight.

Enjoy It While It Lasts

Here’s the thing we never tell people: one day, your Goldendoodle will be a full-grown dog who’s too cool to follow you everywhere. They’ll have their own bed. They’ll be independent and confident. And you’ll miss those early days when they thought you were the most interesting thing in the world.

So go ahead. Let them camp out outside the bathroom door. It’s a phase, and it’s one of the sweetest parts of having a puppy.

Have a Goldendoodle bathroom buddy of your own? Drop a comment below—we’d love to hear your stories!

Top Chew Toys That Survive Goldendoodle Teething

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Goldendoodle puppy chewing on a durable toy

One of the biggest surprises for new Goldendoodle puppy owners is how much their little furbabies love to chew. From the moment they arrive, they’re gnawing on socks, furniture legs, and anything else they can get their mouths on. This is totally normal — puppies are teething, exploring their world with their teeth, and burning off energy.

The trick is giving them safe, durable toys that can actually survive their chewing habits. Goldendoodles have pretty strong jaws, and they don’t always know when to stop. We’ve learned this the hard way over the years, replacing shredded toys and fishing stuffing out of the backyard more times than we can count.

Here are the chew toys we’ve tested with our own puppies and that have actually held up to the challenge.

Kong Extreme Black Rubber Toy

If there’s one toy that’s survived years of Goldendoodle puppies in this house, it’s the Kong Extreme. The black rubber version is specifically designed for aggressive chewers, and it’s earned its reputation. Unlike the pink or red Kong toys, the black ones are made from tougher rubber that can handle serious chewing without shredding apart.

We like these because you can stuff them with treats or peanut butter and freeze them, which is especially great for teething puppies. A frozen Kong gives them something to focus on, keeps their gums cool, and can buy you 20 minutes of peaceful, occupied puppy time.

They also come in a few sizes, so you can match it to your puppy’s mouth. Get the Medium for mini Goldendoodles and Medium or Large depending on the size of your pup. Fair warning: Kongs aren’t indestructible, but they last way longer than most toys, and they’re worth the investment.

Nylabone Power Chew

Nylabones get a mixed reaction from dog owners, but we’ve always had good luck with the Power Chew line. Unlike rawhide chews, these are made from nylon that’s designed to be digestible if your puppy does swallow small pieces (which they will). The texture keeps them entertained, and they’re tough enough to handle serious chewing.

We like these because they’re affordable, last a long time, and unlike some chews, they won’t leave greasy residue all over your house. Your puppy will work on one of these for hours, which means less time destroying your carpet.

The flavor-infused versions (chicken, peanut butter) seem to hold puppies’ attention longer. Just supervise to make sure your puppy isn’t breaking off huge chunks.

West Paw Zogoflex Toys

These are pricier than some other options, but the quality and durability are worth it. West Paw makes their toys right here in the USA, and they back them up with a “Zogoflex Guarantee” — if your dog destroys one, they replace it. We’ve never had to take them up on that offer because these things are seriously built tough.

We like these because they come in fun shapes (squeaky balls, tug toys, fetch toys), they’re made from safe materials, and honestly, it feels good supporting a USA manufacturer. The Zogoflex Tuff Toys are especially good for power chewers.

The only downside is the price — they’re not cheap. But if you have a Goldendoodle who goes through toys like we’ve seen, one West Paw toy will last longer and hold up better than three cheaper alternatives.

Bully Sticks

If you want to move away from toys and into long-lasting chews, bully sticks are our go-to. They’re made from dried beef muscle, they’re 100% digestible, and they keep puppies occupied for a long time. Unlike rawhide, there’s no mystery ingredient — it’s just beef.

We like these because they’re a natural option that won’t upset sensitive stomachs, and puppies absolutely love them. We usually give our puppies one when we’re trying to get something done and need them to focus on something safe. They’re messy (your puppy’s breath will smell like beef for hours), but they’re worth it.

Get the 6-inch bully sticks for puppies and supervised chewing. Always throw them away when they get down to a small nub that could be a choking hazard. For a great quality option, try high-grade bully sticks from reputable brands.

Frozen Bones (The Budget Option)

This one’s not Amazon-affiliate material, but it deserves a mention because it’s cheap, natural, and our puppies go crazy for it. Get raw meaty bones from your butcher (knuckle bones, marrow bones) and freeze them. Give them to your puppy supervised, and they’ll gnaw on them for hours.

The cold helps with teething pain, and the natural chewing is exactly what Zak George recommends for puppies. Just watch out for splinters if it’s a cooked bone — always use raw.

A Note on Supervision

No matter what chew toy you choose, supervise your puppy while they’re chewing. Watch for signs that pieces are breaking off and could become choking hazards. Some toys are safe for unsupervised chewing, but most aren’t.

Also, rotate toys regularly. If your puppy has the same toy every single day, they might get bored. Swap them out, bring back the Kong after a few days, and you’ve got a “new” toy again.

Bottom Line

Goldendoodle puppies are going to chew. It’s their job. Your job is making sure they have safe, durable options that keep them happy (and keep your furniture intact). Start with a Kong Extreme, add a Nylabone, and maybe throw in a bully stick for good measure. Your puppy will be entertained, you’ll get some peace and quiet, and you won’t be replacing toys every week.

If you’re ever not sure if a toy is safe for your specific puppy, ask your vet. They know your puppy’s size and chewing style, and they can give you personalized advice.

Happy chewing!

Some links on this page are affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if you make a purchase — at no extra cost to you.

Potty Training Tips That Actually Work (From a Breeder)

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Golden doodle puppy learning to go potty outside during training

Why Crate Training Comes First

Before your puppy can be potty trained, they need to understand that their crate is their safe space. Dogs naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area, which is the foundation of housebreaking. We follow the positive reinforcement approach that trainers like Zak George teach — never force your puppy into the crate, and always make it feel like a choice.

Once your puppy is comfortable in their crate, potty training becomes SO much easier. You’re not fighting instinct; you’re working with it.

The Potty Training Timeline

Let’s be honest: potty training takes time. Here’s what we’ve found works:

Age 8-12 weeks: Your puppy’s bladder is tiny. They need to go outside every 1-2 hours, plus right after meals (within 20 minutes) and after naps. Expect accidents — a lot of them. That’s totally normal, and it’s never your puppy’s fault. Puppies this age literally cannot hold it for more than 30-60 minutes.

Age 3-4 months: They can start holding it for 3-4 hours. Stick to the same schedule, but you might go from 8-10 trips a day to 6-8. Still expecting accidents inside? Absolutely.

Age 4-6 months: Getting closer! They can hold it 4-5 hours now. You’re down to 4-5 outdoor potty breaks plus meals and naps. Some puppies are starting to signal that they need to go out.

Age 6+ months: Most puppies can hold it 5-6 hours. If you’ve been consistent, many will be reliably housetrained by now.

But here’s the thing: some puppies take longer, and that’s okay. Every puppy is different. We’ve had puppies nail it by 4 months and some that took 6-7 months. The key is patience and consistency — you’re not being lenient if you forgive an accident, you’re being realistic about your puppy’s development.

The Setup: Keep Them Tethered

When your puppy is out of the crate, they stay attached to you. And we mean attached — literally on a leash clipped to your belt loop or nearby furniture.

Why? Because puppies are sneaky. They disappear around the corner and have an accident before you even realize what’s happening. When they’re tethered to you, you can:

  • Watch for the signs they need to go out (sniffing, circling, whining)
  • Catch accidents in the act (not after) so you can redirect to outside
  • Maintain constant supervision without chasing them around the house

This “umbilical cord” method is a game-changer. Seriously, it prevents more accidents than anything else we do.

The Schedule (and Why It Matters)

Puppies thrive on routine. Here’s what a typical day looks like with an 8-week-old:

6:00 AM: Puppy wakes up → straight outside
6:30 AM: Breakfast → directly outside 20 minutes later
7:00 AM: Playtime/training indoors (tethered)
8:30 AM: Nap time in crate
10:00 AM: Puppy wakes → straight outside
10:30 AM: Lunch → directly outside 20 minutes later
11:00 AM: Playtime indoors (tethered)
12:30 PM: Crate time
2:00 PM: Outside
2:30 PM: Snack/water → directly outside
3:00 PM: Play and training (tethered)
4:30 PM: Crate time
6:00 PM: Outside, then dinner
6:30 PM: Outside 20 minutes after eating
7:00 PM: Family time (tethered)
8:30 PM: Crate for the night
11:00 PM: Final potty break (go right back to crate)
2:00 AM: One more break for very young puppies

Does this seem exhausting? It kind of is. But it’s only for a few weeks, and the payoff is a reliably housetrained puppy by month 3 or 4.

The “Boring” Potty Break

Here’s something most people get wrong: potty time is BORING. You go outside, you stand there, and you wait. No playing, no talking, no excitement. Your job is to be a vending machine: puppy goes potty → instant reward.

Once your puppy has finished going potty (both #1 and #2), THEN you celebrate and play. You can use a marker word like “Yes!” or “Good go potty!” the instant they finish, reward with a treat, and then play for 5-10 minutes.

This teaches them: outside = go potty FIRST, play SECOND. It takes the pressure off (which actually helps them go) and gives them something to work toward.

Handling Accidents (And You Will Have Them)

An accident is never your puppy’s fault. It’s a sign that:

  • You missed a potty break window
  • Your puppy’s bladder emptied because they couldn’t hold it
  • Something changed in their routine (stress, illness, diet change)

What NOT to do:

  • Never yell or punish — this teaches them to hide or fear you
  • Never rub their nose in it — puppies don’t make the connection
  • Never leave them outside to “think about it” — they don’t understand

What TO do:

  1. Clean it up thoroughly with enzymatic cleaner (removes scent completely)
  2. Tighten your schedule — they’re telling you they need more frequent breaks
  3. Make sure they’re not stressed or sick
  4. Move forward. One accident doesn’t mean starting over.

Seriously, we’ve made every mistake in the book, and the puppies turned out fine because we just adjusted and kept going.

The Products That Help

You don’t need much, but a few things make life easier:

Crate for daytime: We recommend the MidWest iCrate 42-inch Double Door — it’s sturdy, includes a divider panel, and folds flat. The two doors mean you can access your puppy from either side of the crate, which is helpful during training.

Crate pad: Add a JoicyCo Dog Bed Crate Pad Mat to make it comfy. The non-slip bottom keeps it from shifting around, and it’s machine washable (you’ll need that when there’s an accident).

Training treats: For that instant reward when they go potty outside, high-value treats work best. We like Ziwi Peak Air-Dried Beef Cubes — they’re single-ingredient, tiny, and your puppy will work hard for them.

When Should They Be Reliably Housetrained?

Here’s the honest answer: it depends. Most puppies show reliable control by 4-5 months if you’re consistent with the crate and schedule. Some take until 6 months or beyond.

The key word is “reliable” — they might go weeks without an accident, then have one when you’ve been busy or the routine shifted. That’s not regression; that’s normal. Puppies need reinforcement.

By 6-8 months, most of our puppies are trustworthy enough to have supervised indoor freedom without being tethered. By a year, they should be reliably housetrained if you’ve put in the work.

Why We Don’t Use Puppy Pads

Okay, we’re going to say it: puppy pads can actually slow down housetraining. Here’s why:

Puppy pads teach your dog that it’s okay to go potty inside the house — just on the approved spot. Then at some point, you want them to understand that inside = never, and outside = always. That’s confusing for a puppy.

We prefer to skip that step and go straight to crate + frequent outdoor breaks. Yes, it means more trips outside. But it’s faster in the long run, and you’re not fighting conflicting messages.

The only exception: if you live in an apartment or have a medical situation where you can’t do frequent outdoor breaks, pads might be necessary. In that case, create a designated “potty zone” far from their sleeping/eating area and accept that it’ll take longer to housetrain.

You’ve Got This

Potty training is probably the most frustrating part of raising a puppy. There will be accidents. You’ll find a pile in the living room. You’ll get tired of going outside 8 times a day.

But here’s what we know from years of raising Goldendoodle puppies: if you stay consistent with the crate, the schedule, and the tethering, your puppy WILL be reliably housetrained. It might take 4 months, it might take 6 — but it will happen.

And once it does? It’s so worth it. A housetrained puppy is a joy. Hang in there!

Some links on this page are affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if you make a purchase — at no extra cost to you.

The 5-Minute Rule for Exercising Puppies

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Goldendoodle puppy playing and exercising

One question we hear all the time is, “How much exercise does my Goldendoodle puppy need?” And our answer is always the same: way less than most people think.

Here’s the rule we follow: five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day. So a two-month-old puppy gets about 10 minutes twice a day. A three-month-old? Fifteen minutes, twice a day. And so on.

We know that sounds short, but there’s real science behind it. Puppies have developing bones and joints. Too much exercise too early can actually damage their growth plates. A Goldendoodle puppy might have the energy of a tiny tornado, but their bodies aren’t ready for long walks or intense play sessions.

What does exercise look like for us? For a young puppy, it’s usually a short walk around the yard, some indoor playtime, and a lot of sniffing around (which puppies find surprisingly exhausting). It’s not about distance or intensity—it’s about mental stimulation and a little bit of physical activity.

The trickier part? After that exercise window closes, the puppy is usually tired but not settled. That’s when the “zoomies” happen. Your puppy might seem hyper, but they’re actually overtired. This is when crate time and naps become your best friend. A tired puppy who gets a good nap is a calm puppy.

We also exercise our puppies before training sessions. A puppy who’s had 10 minutes of playtime learns way better than a puppy who’s been cooped up. It’s one of those simple tweaks that makes training feel less like a battle and more like fun.

The other thing to remember: puppies are doing a ton of growing and learning. Just walking around the house and exploring is exercise. Mental work counts. So if you play “find the treat” in the living room for five minutes, you’ve probably met the day’s exercise quota.

By the time your Goldendoodle is full-grown (12-18 months), they’ll be ready for longer walks and more intense play. But those early months? Keep it short, keep it fun, and watch how much calmer your house becomes.

—Puppy Pals Team

One Thing We Wish Every New Puppy Owner Knew

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Tired Goldendoodle puppy napping

If we could tell every new puppy owner just one thing, it would be this:

Your puppy needs more rest than you think.

We know, it sounds weird. You just brought home your adorable new Goldendoodle, and they’re so cute when they’re awake. You want to play with them, show them off to friends and family, let the kids interact with them constantly. But here’s what we’ve learned from raising dozens of litters: a tired puppy that hasn’t had enough sleep isn’t a playful puppy. It’s an overstimulated, nippy, hyper mess.

Puppies need between 15-20 hours of sleep a day. Not quiet time in their pen. Actually sleeping. Most new owners have no idea this is normal, so when their 8-week-old puppy is acting like a tiny furry tornado at 7pm, they think something is wrong. Nope. They just need a nap.

Here’s what we see happen: You bring your puppy home Friday evening. The grandparents come over Saturday morning. Your neighbor stops by Sunday to meet the new baby. Your kid has a birthday party and three friends want to come see the puppy. By Sunday night, your cute little fluffball has turned into a land shark, biting everything and everyone, refusing to listen to anything, and basically seeming like the worst puppy ever.

It’s not the puppy. They’re exhausted.

The difference in behavior between a well-rested puppy and an overstimulated one is night and day. A puppy who has gotten enough sleep is calmer, listens better, trains easier, and is honestly just nicer to be around. The biting stops. The crazy zoomies are less frequent. They’re more affectionate instead of defensive.

So here’s our advice: for the first few weeks especially, keep your puppy’s schedule pretty protected. Yes, let them meet people and socialize (that’s important). But don’t do it all at once. One visitor or outing at a time, followed by quiet time and a nap. If relatives want to meet your puppy and they’re planning to stay for hours, schedule it early in the day when your pup still has some energy to spare. Plan for them to need a nap afterward.

Put your puppy in their crate for quiet time (it should be a happy place, not a punishment). Put them on a consistent schedule. If they seem crazy, don’t assume you got a difficult puppy. Usually, they’re just telling you they’re tired.

This one thing changed everything for us. We hope it helps you too.

Best Puppy Training Treats — Soft, Small, and Affordable

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Goldendoodle puppy learning with training treats

When you start training your puppy, treats become your best friend. Puppies are incredibly food-motivated, and the right training treats can make the difference between a quick learning session and a frustrating one. We’ve trained several litters of Goldendoodles now, and here are the treats we keep coming back to again and again.

What Makes a Good Training Treat?

Not all treats are created equal when it comes to training. You’ll be going through a LOT of treats during the first few weeks and months—we’re talking hundreds. Here’s what matters:

  • Soft and easily breakable—Hard biscuits are out. You need treats that soften quickly in a puppy’s mouth so they can swallow and get back to the next repetition. Crunchy treats slow down your training rhythm.
  • Small size—A pea-sized treat is plenty. You’re not trying to feed your puppy; you’re rewarding behavior. Smaller treats also mean you can do more repetitions without overfeeding your puppy’s daily calorie budget.
  • Smelly and irresistible—Your puppy should be excited to work for these treats. Bland biscuits won’t cut it. Meat-based treats with strong aroma work best.
  • Low calorie—Since you’re using so many, they need to be light on calories or you’ll overfeed without realizing it. High-protein, low-filler is the way to go.
  • Good for their digestion—Some cheap treats cause upset stomachs. Look for single-ingredient or simple recipes with no mystery meat by-products.

Our Top Training Treat Picks

Ziwi Peak Air-Dried Beef

This is one of our favorite high-value training treats. Ziwi Peak Air-Dried Beef Cubes are 100% beef with nothing else—no fillers, no weird ingredients. Puppies absolutely lose their minds for these. Break them into tiny pieces (smaller than your pinky nail) and you’ve got the perfect high-value reward for tough training moments like recalls or “leave it” exercises. One bag lasts through multiple training sessions if you’re breaking the pieces up. We like these because they’re made from New Zealand grass-fed beef and there’s absolutely nothing questionable in the ingredient list.

Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Beef

Another single-ingredient option we trust. Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Beef Bites are pure beef, freeze-dried to lock in nutrition and flavor. They’re a bit crumbly (which is perfect for breaking into training-sized pieces), and puppies find them irresistible. These work especially well during the early weeks when you’re doing frequent short training sessions. The bite-sized format means less prep work on your end. We love that they’re USDA sourced and have that strong meaty smell that puppies love.

Purina Pro Plan Training Treats

If you want a more budget-friendly option without sacrificing quality, Purina Pro Plan Chicken and Rice Training Treats are soft, small, and affordable. They’re not single-ingredient like the freeze-dried options, but they’re formulated specifically for training and won’t upset sensitive puppy stomachs. Great for high-frequency training sessions when you don’t want to spend a fortune. Each bag gives you weeks of training treats when you’re breaking them into small pieces.

Treats to Skip

Hard biscuits, dental chews, and rawhides don’t belong in training sessions. They take too long for your puppy to process, and they’re way too high-calorie for the quantity you’ll need. Save those for later in the day as a special reward or enrichment toy, not for training. Also skip anything with lots of artificial ingredients or mystery meat by-products. Your puppy’s stomach will thank you, and their learning will be sharper when they’re not dealing with digestive upset.

Pro Training Treat Tips

  • Break them smaller than you think—A pea-sized reward is plenty. Your puppy doesn’t need a huge bite to get excited about the next repetition.
  • Have multiple options—Switch between high-value (freeze-dried meat) and medium-value (softer kibble) treats depending on the difficulty of what you’re asking. Easy behavior = medium treat. Hard behavior or distraction = high-value treat.
  • Train before meals—A puppy is more motivated when they’re a little hungry, not right after eating. Pick times when they’re alert and food-driven.
  • Keep training sessions short—5-10 minutes max with a young puppy. Multiple short sessions beat one long one. Your puppy’s attention span is shorter than you think.
  • Account for treat calories—If your puppy eats 500 calories per day, and you use 100 calories of training treats, reduce their regular meals accordingly. Treat calories count.

The Real Secret

Here’s the thing: the specific brand of treat matters less than your consistency and energy during training. A puppy with an excited trainer using plain chicken pieces will learn faster than a bored trainer with fancy treats. That said, having treats that your puppy genuinely loves removes one variable from the equation and keeps training fun for both of you.

We keep our training treats simple and high-quality—usually freeze-dried or single-ingredient options—because they work, they’re easy to portion, and our puppies go wild for them. Start with one of these recommendations, watch how your puppy responds, and adjust from there. You’ll figure out what works best for your fur baby pretty quickly. And remember: you’re not rewarding the treat, you’re rewarding the behavior. Make it worth your puppy’s while to listen.

Happy training!

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