Month: May 2026

Why Crate Training Comes First

Before your puppy can be potty trained, they need to understand that their crate is their safe space. Dogs naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area, which is the foundation of housebreaking. We follow the positive reinforcement approach that trainers like Zak George teach — never force your puppy into the crate, and always make it feel like a choice.

Once your puppy is comfortable in their crate, potty training becomes SO much easier. You’re not fighting instinct; you’re working with it.

The Potty Training Timeline

Let’s be honest: potty training takes time. Here’s what we’ve found works:

Age 8-12 weeks: Your puppy’s bladder is tiny. They need to go outside every 1-2 hours, plus right after meals (within 20 minutes) and after naps. Expect accidents — a lot of them. That’s totally normal, and it’s never your puppy’s fault. Puppies this age literally cannot hold it for more than 30-60 minutes.

Age 3-4 months: They can start holding it for 3-4 hours. Stick to the same schedule, but you might go from 8-10 trips a day to 6-8. Still expecting accidents inside? Absolutely.

Age 4-6 months: Getting closer! They can hold it 4-5 hours now. You’re down to 4-5 outdoor potty breaks plus meals and naps. Some puppies are starting to signal that they need to go out.

Age 6+ months: Most puppies can hold it 5-6 hours. If you’ve been consistent, many will be reliably housetrained by now.

But here’s the thing: some puppies take longer, and that’s okay. Every puppy is different. We’ve had puppies nail it by 4 months and some that took 6-7 months. The key is patience and consistency — you’re not being lenient if you forgive an accident, you’re being realistic about your puppy’s development.

The Setup: Keep Them Tethered

When your puppy is out of the crate, they stay attached to you. And we mean attached — literally on a leash clipped to your belt loop or nearby furniture.

Why? Because puppies are sneaky. They disappear around the corner and have an accident before you even realize what’s happening. When they’re tethered to you, you can:

• Watch for the signs they need to go out (sniffing, circling, whining)
• Catch accidents in the act (not after) so you can redirect to outside
• Maintain constant supervision without chasing them around the house

This “umbilical cord” method is a game-changer. Seriously, it prevents more accidents than anything else we do.

The Schedule (and Why It Matters)

Puppies thrive on routine. Here’s what a typical day looks like with an 8-week-old:

6:00 AM: Puppy wakes up → straight outside
6:30 AM: Breakfast → directly outside 20 minutes later
7:00 AM: Playtime/training indoors (tethered)
8:30 AM: Nap time in crate
10:00 AM: Puppy wakes → straight outside
10:30 AM: Lunch → directly outside 20 minutes later
11:00 AM: Playtime indoors (tethered)
12:30 PM: Crate time
2:00 PM: Outside
2:30 PM: Snack/water → directly outside
3:00 PM: Play and training (tethered)
4:30 PM: Crate time
6:00 PM: Outside, then dinner
6:30 PM: Outside 20 minutes after eating
7:00 PM: Family time (tethered)
8:30 PM: Crate for the night
11:00 PM: Final potty break (go right back to crate)
2:00 AM: One more break for very young puppies

Does this seem exhausting? It kind of is. But it’s only for a few weeks, and the payoff is a reliably housetrained puppy by month 3 or 4.

The “Boring” Potty Break

Here’s something most people get wrong: potty time is BORING. You go outside, you stand there, and you wait. No playing, no talking, no excitement. Your job is to be a vending machine: puppy goes potty → instant reward.

Once your puppy has finished going potty (both #1 and #2), THEN you celebrate and play. You can use a marker word like “Yes!” or “Good go potty!” the instant they finish, reward with a treat, and then play for 5-10 minutes.

This teaches them: outside = go potty FIRST, play SECOND. It takes the pressure off (which actually helps them go) and gives them something to work toward.

Handling Accidents (And You Will Have Them)

An accident is never your puppy’s fault. It’s a sign that:

• You missed a potty break window
• Your puppy’s bladder emptied because they couldn’t hold it
• Something changed in their routine (stress, illness, diet change)

What NOT to do:

• Never yell or punish — this teaches them to hide or fear you
• Never rub their nose in it — puppies don’t make the connection
• Never leave them outside to “think about it” — they don’t understand

What TO do:

1. Clean it up thoroughly with enzymatic cleaner (removes scent completely)
2. Tighten your schedule — they’re telling you they need more frequent breaks
3. Make sure they’re not stressed or sick
4. Move forward. One accident doesn’t mean starting over.

Seriously, we’ve made every mistake in the book, and the puppies turned out fine because we just adjusted and kept going.

The Products That Help

You don’t need much, but a few things make life easier:

Crate for daytime: We recommend the MidWest iCrate 42-inch Double Door — it’s sturdy, includes a divider panel, and folds flat. The two doors mean you can access your puppy from either side of the crate, which is helpful during training.

Crate pad: Add a JoicyCo Dog Bed Crate Pad Mat to make it comfy. The non-slip bottom keeps it from shifting around, and it’s machine washable (you’ll need that when there’s an accident).

Training treats: For that instant reward when they go potty outside, high-value treats work best. We like Ziwi Peak Air-Dried Beef Cubes — they’re single-ingredient, tiny, and your puppy will work hard for them.

When Should They Be Reliably Housetrained?

Here’s the honest answer: it depends. Most puppies show reliable control by 4-5 months if you’re consistent with the crate and schedule. Some take until 6 months or beyond.

The key word is “reliable” — they might go weeks without an accident, then have one when you’ve been busy or the routine shifted. That’s not regression; that’s normal. Puppies need reinforcement.

By 6-8 months, most of our puppies are trustworthy enough to have supervised indoor freedom without being tethered. By a year, they should be reliably housetrained if you’ve put in the work.

Why We Don’t Use Puppy Pads

Okay, we’re going to say it: puppy pads can actually slow down housetraining. Here’s why:

Puppy pads teach your dog that it’s okay to go potty inside the house — just on the approved spot. Then at some point, you want them to understand that inside = never, and outside = always. That’s confusing for a puppy.

We prefer to skip that step and go straight to crate + frequent outdoor breaks. Yes, it means more trips outside. But it’s faster in the long run, and you’re not fighting conflicting messages.

The only exception: if you live in an apartment or have a medical situation where you can’t do frequent outdoor breaks, pads might be necessary. In that case, create a designated “potty zone” far from their sleeping/eating area and accept that it’ll take longer to housetrain.

You’ve Got This

Potty training is probably the most frustrating part of raising a puppy. There will be accidents. You’ll find a pile in the living room. You’ll get tired of going outside 8 times a day.

But here’s what we know from years of raising Goldendoodle puppies: if you stay consistent with the crate, the schedule, and the tethering, your puppy WILL be reliably housetrained. It might take 4 months, it might take 6 — but it will happen.

And once it does? It’s so worth it. A housetrained puppy is a joy. Hang in there!

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One question we hear all the time is, “How much exercise does my Goldendoodle puppy need?” And our answer is always the same: way less than most people think.

Here’s the rule we follow: five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day. So a two-month-old puppy gets about 10 minutes twice a day. A three-month-old? Fifteen minutes, twice a day. And so on.

We know that sounds short, but there’s real science behind it. Puppies have developing bones and joints. Too much exercise too early can actually damage their growth plates. A Goldendoodle puppy might have the energy of a tiny tornado, but their bodies aren’t ready for long walks or intense play sessions.

What does exercise look like for us? For a young puppy, it’s usually a short walk around the yard, some indoor playtime, and a lot of sniffing around (which puppies find surprisingly exhausting). It’s not about distance or intensity—it’s about mental stimulation and a little bit of physical activity.

The trickier part? After that exercise window closes, the puppy is usually tired but not settled. That’s when the “zoomies” happen. Your puppy might seem hyper, but they’re actually overtired. This is when crate time and naps become your best friend. A tired puppy who gets a good nap is a calm puppy.

We also exercise our puppies before training sessions. A puppy who’s had 10 minutes of playtime learns way better than a puppy who’s been cooped up. It’s one of those simple tweaks that makes training feel less like a battle and more like fun.

The other thing to remember: puppies are doing a ton of growing and learning. Just walking around the house and exploring is exercise. Mental work counts. So if you play “find the treat” in the living room for five minutes, you’ve probably met the day’s exercise quota.

By the time your Goldendoodle is full-grown (12-18 months), they’ll be ready for longer walks and more intense play. But those early months? Keep it short, keep it fun, and watch how much calmer your house becomes.

—Puppy Pals Team

If we could tell every new puppy owner just one thing, it would be this:

Your puppy needs more rest than you think.

We know, it sounds weird. You just brought home your adorable new Goldendoodle, and they’re so cute when they’re awake. You want to play with them, show them off to friends and family, let the kids interact with them constantly. But here’s what we’ve learned from raising dozens of litters: a tired puppy that hasn’t had enough sleep isn’t a playful puppy. It’s an overstimulated, nippy, hyper mess.

Puppies need between 15-20 hours of sleep a day. Not quiet time in their pen. Actually sleeping. Most new owners have no idea this is normal, so when their 8-week-old puppy is acting like a tiny furry tornado at 7pm, they think something is wrong. Nope. They just need a nap.

Here’s what we see happen: You bring your puppy home Friday evening. The grandparents come over Saturday morning. Your neighbor stops by Sunday to meet the new baby. Your kid has a birthday party and three friends want to come see the puppy. By Sunday night, your cute little fluffball has turned into a land shark, biting everything and everyone, refusing to listen to anything, and basically seeming like the worst puppy ever.

It’s not the puppy. They’re exhausted.

The difference in behavior between a well-rested puppy and an overstimulated one is night and day. A puppy who has gotten enough sleep is calmer, listens better, trains easier, and is honestly just nicer to be around. The biting stops. The crazy zoomies are less frequent. They’re more affectionate instead of defensive.

So here’s our advice: for the first few weeks especially, keep your puppy’s schedule pretty protected. Yes, let them meet people and socialize (that’s important). But don’t do it all at once. One visitor or outing at a time, followed by quiet time and a nap. If relatives want to meet your puppy and they’re planning to stay for hours, schedule it early in the day when your pup still has some energy to spare. Plan for them to need a nap afterward.

Put your puppy in their crate for quiet time (it should be a happy place, not a punishment). Put them on a consistent schedule. If they seem crazy, don’t assume you got a difficult puppy. Usually, they’re just telling you they’re tired.

This one thing changed everything for us. We hope it helps you too.

One of the most common questions we get from new Goldendoodle parents is, “How often do I really need to groom my puppy?” The honest answer is: it depends on a few things, but it’s probably more often than you think!

After raising many Goldendoodles here at Puppy Pals and watching puppies grow from tiny furballs into full-coated adults, we’ve learned what works and what doesn’t. Grooming is one of those areas where a little knowledge upfront saves you from major headaches down the road.

Brushing vs. Professional Grooming: What’s the Difference?

Let’s start with the basics. Brushing is something you do at home, regularly. Professional grooming is when you take your dog to a groomer for a full bath, dry, cut, and style. Both are essential, but they’re different jobs.

Your Goldendoodle needs brushing at home 2-3 times per week from puppyhood. For professional grooming (full bath, cut, style), plan on every 6-8 weeks if you like a shorter, easier-to-manage style, or 8-10 weeks if you’re keeping that gorgeous longer coat.

The curlier your Goldendoodle’s coat, the more often both brushing and professional grooming become non-negotiable. Straight coats are more forgiving. Wavy coats need consistent work. Curly coats? They’ll mat on you in a heartbeat if you skip brushing.

Why Brushing Can’t Wait (And What Happens If You Skip It)

Here’s where most new owners get surprised: if you don’t brush regularly, mats form. Not eventually—quickly. And once mats get deep and tight, the only fix is shaving them out. That means saying goodbye to the beautiful, fluffy coat you fell in love with at pickup.

We learned this lesson early. One of our puppies went to a family who thought “she looks fine, we’ll just brush when we get around to it.” Six weeks later, the coat was a matted mess. They had to shave the poor girl down to half an inch.

Don’t let that be you. We brush our dogs several times a week because it takes just 10-15 minutes, and it keeps their coats healthy, mat-free, and beautiful. Plus, puppies actually enjoy it once they get used to it, especially if you use treat rewards.

Start a brushing routine early. Make it fun and positive. Your Goldendoodle will learn to sit still, relax, and even look forward to grooming time.

The Tools That Actually Work

Not all brushes are created equal, and using the wrong tool can actually make matting worse. We’ve tried a lot of brushes, and here’s what we actually use:

A good slicker brush is the foundation. We use the Chris Christensen Big G Slicker Brush. It has long pins that reach through the outer coat down to the undercoat where mats actually form. This is the workhorse. You’ll use it multiple times a week.

Next is an undercoat rake. The Maxpower Planet double-sided undercoat rake is our secret weapon. It’s got different teeth counts on each side—one side for tougher mats, the other for general thinning. Goldendoodles shed way more than most people expect, especially in spring and fall. This rake removes loose undercoat before it ends up on your furniture and in your pup’s coat.

Finally, finish with a metal comb to check for any remaining tangles. A stainless steel comb is affordable and lasts forever.

These three tools handle every grooming situation. Invest in quality versions—they’ll last for years and make grooming faster and more effective.

How Often to Bathe (It’s Probably Less Than You Think)

Goldendoodles should be bathed every 4-6 weeks. This is important: bathing too often (more than monthly) can dry out their coat and skin, leading to irritation, flakiness, and itch. You’re stripping away natural oils that protect their skin.

When you do bathe, use a quality dog shampoo that won’t strip the coat. Cheap shampoos are often harsh.

Our routine before a bath: brush thoroughly. Never bathe a matted dog—water tightens mats and makes them harder to get out. So brush and comb first, then bathe, then dry completely and brush again.

Puppies need even fewer baths. If your puppy isn’t visibly dirty, skip the bath and just do a brush and comb. Dry shampoo or a quick rinse with plain water is fine if they got into something.

Professional Grooming: When to Call the Pro

Every 6-8 weeks, we recommend taking your Goldendoodle to a professional groomer. A good groomer can give a full bath, dry the coat properly (blow dryers are essential for drying a wet doodle coat), and cut it to the length that works for your lifestyle.

If you want to keep your Goldendoodle in full coat (long and fluffy), professional grooming every 6-8 weeks is non-negotiable. The groomer will prevent matting, clean the ears, and maintain the shape of the coat.

Quick tip: find a groomer who has experience with Goldendoodles. They understand the coat type and won’t recommend shaving your pup down unless you ask. A good doodle groomer is worth every penny.

Grooming as Bonding Time

Here’s something we love about grooming: it’s bonding time with your puppy. When you brush regularly from a young age, your Goldendoodle learns to trust you, sits still calmly, and even starts to enjoy it. It’s also a chance to check their ears, paws, skin, and teeth for any issues before they become problems.

Make grooming positive by using treats, keeping sessions short at first, and always ending on a good note. A puppy that’s comfortable with grooming is easier to live with and healthier long-term.

The Real Talk

Goldendoodles require commitment to grooming. It’s not optional, and it’s not something you do when you feel like it. Brush 2-3 times a week (non-negotiable for curly coats). Bathe every 4-6 weeks. Professional grooming every 6-8 weeks. Follow this routine, and your Goldendoodle will look beautiful, feel comfortable, and avoid the matting headaches.

New Goldendoodle parents often underestimate grooming needs. We get it—puppies are adorable, fluffy, and seem fine. But a few minutes of brushing now saves hours of headache later and prevents heartbreak when you realize the coat needs to be shaved.

Plus, your Goldendoodle will thank you with a soft, healthy, beautiful coat. And that’s something special.

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