Bath day with a Goldendoodle is a bigger deal than it is with a short-haired dog. That curly or wavy coat is what we love about them, and it is also what turns into a tangled mess if the wrong product goes on it. We have raised a lot of puppies and bathed a lot of doodles, and the shampoo shelf at the pet store can be overwhelming. So here is what we look for, and the three products we point new puppy families toward.

What to look for in a Goldendoodle shampoo

A few things matter more than the label on the front.

• Gentle cleanser. Doodle skin can be sensitive. Harsh soaps strip the coat and leave it dry and frizzy.
• Something that helps with tangles. Curly and wavy coats mat easily, and a wet coat that is already knotted only gets worse in the tub.
• Puppy friendly. If your pup is young, check the bottle for age guidance before you buy.
• A scent you can live with. You will smell it on the couch for a day or two.

One more thing. Brush your dog out before the bath, every time. Water tightens a mat instead of loosening it. If you need a refresher on tools, we wrote up our favorites in Our Favorite Grooming Tools for Goldendoodles.

1. The shampoo: TropiClean Perfect Fur Curly & Wavy

This one is made with curly and wavy coats in mind, which is exactly what most of our Goldendoodles have. It uses a mild coconut-based cleanser and is meant to cut down on tangles and help the coat dry with some lift instead of lying flat and heavy.

Why we like it: it is a simple, no-fuss shampoo that does what it says. It is a good first pick if you want one bottle and do not want to think too hard about it. Find it here: TropiClean Perfect Fur Curly & Wavy Shampoo.

2. The all-in-one: We Love Doodles Shampoo, Conditioner & Detangler

If bath time already feels like a three-ring circus at your house, an all-in-one saves a step. This 16 oz bottle combines shampoo, conditioner and detangler, with jojoba oil, aloe vera, chamomile and calendula. It is sold as gentle enough for puppies.

Why we like it: wiggly puppies do not hold still for a long bath. Fewer bottles means a shorter bath and a happier pup. It will not replace a good brushing, but it helps loosen small knots as you go. Here is the link: We Love Doodles Shampoo, Conditioner & Detangler.

3. The between-bath helper: TropiClean Dog Detangler Spray

This is a leave-in spray you use on a dry or damp coat before you brush. It coats the tangles so the slicker brush slides through instead of pulling. It is the one we reach for in the middle of the week when a puppy has been rolling around outside and the ears are starting to knot up.

Why we like it: it makes daily brushing easier, and easy brushing is what keeps a doodle out of the groomer’s chair with a full shave-down. A spray will help with small tangles but will not rescue a heavily matted coat. For that, you want a professional. Grab it here: TropiClean Dog Detangler Spray.

What we skip

We stay away from human shampoo, even the gentle baby kind. Dog skin is less acidic than ours, and human products can leave a doodle dry and flaky. We also skip heavily perfumed bottles. If a shampoo smells strong enough to fill the room, it is probably going to bother your puppy’s nose and skin too. When in doubt, pick the plain option and let the brushing do the heavy lifting between baths.

A few bath day tips from our house

Use lukewarm water. Wet the whole coat first, all the way down to the skin, because doodle hair holds a lot of water. Work the shampoo in gently with your fingers instead of scrubbing in circles, which can tangle things up. Rinse longer than you think you need to. Leftover soap is the number one cause of itchy skin we hear about.

Dry the coat well, too. A damp doodle left to air dry can end up with tight little mats behind the ears and under the legs. A towel first, then a blow dryer on a cool or low setting while you brush, works best. Go slow and keep treats handy so the dryer stays a good thing in your puppy’s mind.

How often to bathe? For most of our dogs, every four to six weeks is plenty, with brushing in between. If your dog has skin trouble or a medical coat condition, ask your vet before you change products.

Got a favorite shampoo that works wonders on your doodle? We are always happy to hear what is working for other families.

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Featured image: Photo by Taylor on Unsplash

One of the questions we get asked most by families picking up a puppy is what leash and harness they actually need. There are so many options out there that it gets overwhelming fast, so we wanted to share what we recommend to our own families based on what has worked well for our dogs and the puppies we have raised over the years.

A Goldendoodle puppy grows fast. What fits at 10 weeks will not fit at 6 months, and their necks and chests are still developing, so we lean toward harnesses over collar walking for anything that involves real leash pressure. A harness spreads the pressure across the chest instead of the throat, which matters a lot when you are working on leash manners with a wiggly puppy who has not learned to stop pulling yet.

We have watched a lot of new puppy owners walk out of the pet store with the first harness they saw on the shelf, only to come back a few weeks later frustrated that their dog is still dragging them down the street. Most of the time it is not the puppy’s fault, it is the equipment. A back-clip harness lets a dog pull with their whole body weight using the strongest muscles they have, which is exactly what you do not want while you are still teaching loose leash walking. Getting the right gear from the start saves you a lot of headaches later.

We also get asked whether a puppy really needs a harness at all, or if a collar is enough. Our answer is both, just for different jobs. The collar holds ID tags and rabies tags and stays on all the time. The harness is what you clip the leash to for actual walks, hikes, and training sessions. Trying to make one piece of gear do both jobs is where most of the pulling and coughing problems start.

Best Puppy Harness for Growing Bodies

For the early months, we like a step-in style harness because there is no fussing with getting it over the head, which most puppies hate. The Best Pet Supplies Voyager Step-In Air Harness is lightweight and breathable, with a hook and loop fastener plus a buckle so it stays secure even when your puppy decides to try out their new zoomies in the backyard. We like this one because it is affordable enough that you do not feel bad replacing it in a few months once your puppy has grown out of it.

As your puppy grows and you are working seriously on not pulling, look for a harness with both a front and back clip, not just a back clip. Clipping the leash to the front ring redirects your dog back toward you instead of letting them use their full chest strength to drag you down the sidewalk, which lines up with the positive, no-force training approach we follow with our own dogs. It is worth sizing up into a sturdier harness like this once your puppy grows out of the step-in style above.

Best Leash for Everyday Walks and Training

For the leash itself, we are not picky about brand as long as it is sturdy, comfortable in your hand, and visible if you are out early or after dark. The Taglory Rope Dog Leash has held up well for us. It is climbing rope style, so it can handle a strong pull if your puppy suddenly spots a squirrel, and the reflective threads run through the whole length instead of just being painted on, which actually makes a difference at dusk.

Best Collar for ID and Everyday Wear

We still recommend every puppy wear a well fitted collar with ID tags at all times, even if you do most of your walking on a harness. The Ladoogo Reflective Dog Collar is padded with soft neoprene so it will not rub against your puppy’s neck, has a sturdy metal D-ring for tags, and comes with a bonus leash, which is a nice bonus if you need a backup for car rides or vet visits.

A few things we have found matter more than brand name. Always check the sizing chart before you buy since Goldendoodles range so widely in adult size depending on whether they are mini, medium, or standard. Recheck the fit every few weeks while your puppy is still growing, you should be able to fit two fingers under any strap. And if you are working on loose leash walking, a front-clip harness makes the process so much easier than fighting a collar.

We also recommend clipping the leash to your own belt loop or waistband when your puppy is out of the crate and you are home with them, not just on walks. Keeping them attached to you gives you a chance to catch the early signs they need to go potty and it keeps them from wandering off and getting into something they should not. It sounds like a small thing but it makes a real difference in how fast house training clicks for a lot of families.

Whatever gear you land on, give your puppy a little time to get used to wearing it before you expect a calm walk. Let them wear the harness around the house for a few minutes at a time first, with treats and praise, so it feels normal rather than something being forced on them. A puppy who is comfortable in their gear settles into walks so much faster than one who is distracted by a strange new feeling around their chest.

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When we brought our first Goldendoodle puppy home, we made the classic mistake of buying one really nice bed upfront. It was destroyed in about two weeks.

After raising multiple litters and watching our own dogs grow from tiny pups to full-grown adults, we have a pretty good handle on what actually works at different life stages. The truth is, what your puppy needs at eight weeks old is nothing like what a two-year-old Goldendoodle needs. And buying the wrong bed at the wrong stage just wastes money.

Here’s what we actually use and recommend.

A Quick Note About Life Stages

Mini and medium Goldendoodles go through some pretty distinct phases when it comes to beds:

• Puppies (8 weeks to about 6 months): Chewing is the main concern. Accidents happen. Easy to clean and hard to destroy matters more than comfort right now.
• Adolescents (6 to 18 months): Still some chewing, but they’re bigger and starting to settle. You can start introducing something nicer, but durability still counts.
• Adults (18 months and up): Time to invest in real comfort. Orthopedic support starts to matter, especially for dogs who run, jump, and rough-house a lot.

Our Top Picks

For Puppies: K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Crate Bed

This is what we tell every new Goldendoodle owner to start with. It fits inside a 36-inch wire crate, which is what we recommend for Mini Goldendoodles, and it is essentially impossible for a puppy to destroy. Accidents wipe right off.

The fabric is what K9 Ballistics calls “ballistic nylon” and it lives up to the name. Our pups have gone at it pretty hard and it just does not give. The edges are reinforced and there’s no stuffing to pull out, which is half the battle with puppies who want to shred anything soft.

It’s not the coziest thing in the world, but that’s kind of the point. Once your pup is past the destruction phase, you graduate them to something better. Think of this as the starter bed that actually survives.

K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Crate Bed (fits 36-inch crates, for medium dogs)

For Adults Who Need Support: PetFusion Ultimate Dog Bed

This is the one we use for our adult dogs. It has a 4-inch solid memory foam base, a waterproof liner underneath the cover, and a cover that unzips and goes straight into the washing machine.

For Goldendoodles who are active dogs, the joint support really does make a difference over time. Goldendoodles are athletic and they put a lot of mileage on their joints. A mattress-style bed with real foam under them is a lot better than one of those thin pillow beds that goes flat in three months.

The medium size works well for Mini Goldendoodles and smaller mids. If you have a bigger dog in the 40 to 50 pound range, go large. The cover is soft, the foam holds its shape, and it just lasts. We’ve had ours for a couple of years without problems.

PetFusion Ultimate Dog Bed (orthopedic memory foam, multiple sizes)

For Dogs Who Love to Lean: Furhaven Sofa-Style Orthopedic Bed

Some dogs just love having something to rest their head on. If your Goldendoodle is always propping up against the arm of the couch or leaning into you, they’re a bolster dog, and this is the bed for them.

The Furhaven sofa-style has raised edges on three sides that give them that feeling of being nestled in, plus an egg crate foam base that is genuinely supportive. The cover comes off and washes easily, and the plush fabric holds up well to normal adult dog use.

We like the large size for most of our Goldendoodles. It fits in a corner of the bedroom nicely and looks decent in the house, which matters when dog beds are basically furniture at this point.

Furhaven Plush Sofa-Style Orthopedic Dog Bed (bolster style, large, for dogs up to 55 lbs)

What to Skip

We have tried a lot of beds over the years and here is what doesn’t work for Goldendoodles specifically.

Thin pillow beds under $20. They go flat fast. Your dog ends up sleeping on basically a sheet of fabric over the floor. Save your money.

Beds without removable covers. Goldendoodles track in mud and water, and they shed, even the low-shedding ones. If you can’t throw the cover in the washer, it’s going to smell bad in a month.

Beds sized for “large breeds” based on weight alone. The weight chart might say your 35-pound Goldendoodle fits a medium, but Goldendoodles are long dogs. Always check the actual dimensions and give them room to stretch out.

Our Recommendation

Start with the K9 Ballistics armored crate bed during the puppy and adolescent phase. Once your Goldendoodle is reliably past the chewing stage, treat them to the PetFusion for flat sleepers or the Furhaven if they’re a leaner. That’s the progression that actually works.

You don’t need to spend a fortune on a puppy bed. You do need to invest a little when they’re grown and ready for the real thing. Your adult Goldendoodle will thank you for it.

If you have questions about what size bed to get based on your specific puppy, reach out anytime. We’re happy to help!

Puppy Pals Team

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One of the biggest surprises for new Goldendoodle puppy owners is how much their little furbabies love to chew. From the moment they arrive, they’re gnawing on socks, furniture legs, and anything else they can get their mouths on. This is totally normal — puppies are teething, exploring their world with their teeth, and burning off energy.

The trick is giving them safe, durable toys that can actually survive their chewing habits. Goldendoodles have pretty strong jaws, and they don’t always know when to stop. We’ve learned this the hard way over the years, replacing shredded toys and fishing stuffing out of the backyard more times than we can count.

Here are the chew toys we’ve tested with our own puppies and that have actually held up to the challenge.

Kong Extreme Black Rubber Toy

If there’s one toy that’s survived years of Goldendoodle puppies in this house, it’s the Kong Extreme. The black rubber version is specifically designed for aggressive chewers, and it’s earned its reputation. Unlike the pink or red Kong toys, the black ones are made from tougher rubber that can handle serious chewing without shredding apart.

We like these because you can stuff them with treats or peanut butter and freeze them, which is especially great for teething puppies. A frozen Kong gives them something to focus on, keeps their gums cool, and can buy you 20 minutes of peaceful, occupied puppy time.

They also come in a few sizes, so you can match it to your puppy’s mouth. Get the Medium for mini Goldendoodles and Medium or Large depending on the size of your pup. Fair warning: Kongs aren’t indestructible, but they last way longer than most toys, and they’re worth the investment.

Nylabone Power Chew

Nylabones get a mixed reaction from dog owners, but we’ve always had good luck with the Power Chew line. Unlike rawhide chews, these are made from nylon that’s designed to be digestible if your puppy does swallow small pieces (which they will). The texture keeps them entertained, and they’re tough enough to handle serious chewing.

We like these because they’re affordable, last a long time, and unlike some chews, they won’t leave greasy residue all over your house. Your puppy will work on one of these for hours, which means less time destroying your carpet.

The flavor-infused versions (chicken, peanut butter) seem to hold puppies’ attention longer. Just supervise to make sure your puppy isn’t breaking off huge chunks.

West Paw Zogoflex Toys

These are pricier than some other options, but the quality and durability are worth it. West Paw makes their toys right here in the USA, and they back them up with a “Zogoflex Guarantee” — if your dog destroys one, they replace it. We’ve never had to take them up on that offer because these things are seriously built tough.

We like these because they come in fun shapes (squeaky balls, tug toys, fetch toys), they’re made from safe materials, and honestly, it feels good supporting a USA manufacturer. The Zogoflex Tuff Toys are especially good for power chewers.

The only downside is the price — they’re not cheap. But if you have a Goldendoodle who goes through toys like we’ve seen, one West Paw toy will last longer and hold up better than three cheaper alternatives.

Bully Sticks

If you want to move away from toys and into long-lasting chews, bully sticks are our go-to. They’re made from dried beef muscle, they’re 100% digestible, and they keep puppies occupied for a long time. Unlike rawhide, there’s no mystery ingredient — it’s just beef.

We like these because they’re a natural option that won’t upset sensitive stomachs, and puppies absolutely love them. We usually give our puppies one when we’re trying to get something done and need them to focus on something safe. They’re messy (your puppy’s breath will smell like beef for hours), but they’re worth it.

Get the 6-inch bully sticks for puppies and supervised chewing. Always throw them away when they get down to a small nub that could be a choking hazard. For a great quality option, try high-grade bully sticks from reputable brands.

Frozen Bones (The Budget Option)

This one’s not Amazon-affiliate material, but it deserves a mention because it’s cheap, natural, and our puppies go crazy for it. Get raw meaty bones from your butcher (knuckle bones, marrow bones) and freeze them. Give them to your puppy supervised, and they’ll gnaw on them for hours.

The cold helps with teething pain, and the natural chewing is exactly what Zak George recommends for puppies. Just watch out for splinters if it’s a cooked bone — always use raw.

A Note on Supervision

No matter what chew toy you choose, supervise your puppy while they’re chewing. Watch for signs that pieces are breaking off and could become choking hazards. Some toys are safe for unsupervised chewing, but most aren’t.

Also, rotate toys regularly. If your puppy has the same toy every single day, they might get bored. Swap them out, bring back the Kong after a few days, and you’ve got a “new” toy again.

Bottom Line

Goldendoodle puppies are going to chew. It’s their job. Your job is making sure they have safe, durable options that keep them happy (and keep your furniture intact). Start with a Kong Extreme, add a Nylabone, and maybe throw in a bully stick for good measure. Your puppy will be entertained, you’ll get some peace and quiet, and you won’t be replacing toys every week.

If you’re ever not sure if a toy is safe for your specific puppy, ask your vet. They know your puppy’s size and chewing style, and they can give you personalized advice.

Happy chewing!

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When you start training your puppy, treats become your best friend. Puppies are incredibly food-motivated, and the right training treats can make the difference between a quick learning session and a frustrating one. We’ve trained several litters of Goldendoodles now, and here are the treats we keep coming back to again and again.

What Makes a Good Training Treat?

Not all treats are created equal when it comes to training. You’ll be going through a LOT of treats during the first few weeks and months—we’re talking hundreds. Here’s what matters:

• Soft and easily breakable—Hard biscuits are out. You need treats that soften quickly in a puppy’s mouth so they can swallow and get back to the next repetition. Crunchy treats slow down your training rhythm.
• Small size—A pea-sized treat is plenty. You’re not trying to feed your puppy; you’re rewarding behavior. Smaller treats also mean you can do more repetitions without overfeeding your puppy’s daily calorie budget.
• Smelly and irresistible—Your puppy should be excited to work for these treats. Bland biscuits won’t cut it. Meat-based treats with strong aroma work best.
• Low calorie—Since you’re using so many, they need to be light on calories or you’ll overfeed without realizing it. High-protein, low-filler is the way to go.
• Good for their digestion—Some cheap treats cause upset stomachs. Look for single-ingredient or simple recipes with no mystery meat by-products.

Our Top Training Treat Picks

Ziwi Peak Air-Dried Beef

This is one of our favorite high-value training treats. Ziwi Peak Air-Dried Beef Cubes are 100% beef with nothing else—no fillers, no weird ingredients. Puppies absolutely lose their minds for these. Break them into tiny pieces (smaller than your pinky nail) and you’ve got the perfect high-value reward for tough training moments like recalls or “leave it” exercises. One bag lasts through multiple training sessions if you’re breaking the pieces up. We like these because they’re made from New Zealand grass-fed beef and there’s absolutely nothing questionable in the ingredient list.

Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Beef

Another single-ingredient option we trust. Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Beef Bites are pure beef, freeze-dried to lock in nutrition and flavor. They’re a bit crumbly (which is perfect for breaking into training-sized pieces), and puppies find them irresistible. These work especially well during the early weeks when you’re doing frequent short training sessions. The bite-sized format means less prep work on your end. We love that they’re USDA sourced and have that strong meaty smell that puppies love.

Purina Pro Plan Training Treats

If you want a more budget-friendly option without sacrificing quality, Purina Pro Plan Chicken and Rice Training Treats are soft, small, and affordable. They’re not single-ingredient like the freeze-dried options, but they’re formulated specifically for training and won’t upset sensitive puppy stomachs. Great for high-frequency training sessions when you don’t want to spend a fortune. Each bag gives you weeks of training treats when you’re breaking them into small pieces.

Treats to Skip

Hard biscuits, dental chews, and rawhides don’t belong in training sessions. They take too long for your puppy to process, and they’re way too high-calorie for the quantity you’ll need. Save those for later in the day as a special reward or enrichment toy, not for training. Also skip anything with lots of artificial ingredients or mystery meat by-products. Your puppy’s stomach will thank you, and their learning will be sharper when they’re not dealing with digestive upset.

Pro Training Treat Tips

• Break them smaller than you think—A pea-sized reward is plenty. Your puppy doesn’t need a huge bite to get excited about the next repetition.
• Have multiple options—Switch between high-value (freeze-dried meat) and medium-value (softer kibble) treats depending on the difficulty of what you’re asking. Easy behavior = medium treat. Hard behavior or distraction = high-value treat.
• Train before meals—A puppy is more motivated when they’re a little hungry, not right after eating. Pick times when they’re alert and food-driven.
• Keep training sessions short—5-10 minutes max with a young puppy. Multiple short sessions beat one long one. Your puppy’s attention span is shorter than you think.
• Account for treat calories—If your puppy eats 500 calories per day, and you use 100 calories of training treats, reduce their regular meals accordingly. Treat calories count.

The Real Secret

Here’s the thing: the specific brand of treat matters less than your consistency and energy during training. A puppy with an excited trainer using plain chicken pieces will learn faster than a bored trainer with fancy treats. That said, having treats that your puppy genuinely loves removes one variable from the equation and keeps training fun for both of you.

We keep our training treats simple and high-quality—usually freeze-dried or single-ingredient options—because they work, they’re easy to portion, and our puppies go wild for them. Start with one of these recommendations, watch how your puppy responds, and adjust from there. You’ll figure out what works best for your fur baby pretty quickly. And remember: you’re not rewarding the treat, you’re rewarding the behavior. Make it worth your puppy’s while to listen.

Happy training!

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One question we get from new Goldendoodle owners is: “What tools do I actually need to groom my puppy?” The answer is simpler than you’d think. You don’t need a ton of fancy equipment. But you do need the right tools, used consistently. We’re going to share the three grooming tools that made the biggest difference in our routine with our dogs.

Our Goldendoodles have beautiful, fluffy coats that require regular maintenance. When we had our first litter, I thought I could get away with just one brush and see what happened. Spoiler: that didn’t go well. Mats happened. A lot of mats. After some trial and error (and a lot of brush shopping), we figured out what actually works. Here’s what we use every week with our pups.

The Chris Christensen Big G Slicker Brush

This is our go-to brush, and honestly, we use it more than any other tool. A good slicker brush is the foundation of any grooming routine with a Goldendoodle. The Chris Christensen Big G has longer pins that can actually penetrate through the outer coat and reach the undercoat, which is where a lot of the tangles and mats start forming.

We like this brush because it works on all coat types – whether your puppy has a curlier coat or a wavier one, the pins are long enough to do the job. The handle feels good in your hand for longer grooming sessions, and it’s durable enough that we’ve been using the same one for a couple of years now. It’s not the cheapest option out there, but it’s definitely worth the investment if you’re serious about keeping your Goldendoodle’s coat healthy.

Our routine: We use the slicker brush about three times a week, working through the entire coat section by section. We always brush before bathing too, because wet coat + mats = a much harder grooming session later.

The Maxpower Planet Undercoat Rake

After you’ve gone through with the slicker brush, the undercoat rake is your next step. This tool is double-sided – one side has fewer, thicker teeth for working through mats, and the other side has more teeth for general undercoat thinning. It gets down into that thick undercoat that Goldendoodles are famous for.

We especially love the Maxpower Planet rake because it actually reduces the amount of loose hair you’re dealing with. If you don’t use an undercoat rake regularly, you’ll find fur tumbleweeds all over your house. Seriously. After using the rake once a week, we notice way less shedding on our furniture and clothing. The tool is sturdy, and the handle is comfortable, so you won’t get hand fatigue if you’re working on a bigger pup.

Pro tip: The undercoat rake is especially helpful during seasonal shedding. When spring rolls around and your Goldendoodle starts blowing their coat, this tool becomes your best friend. You can remove what feels like pounds of loose fur.

The BPS Pet Grooming Metal Comb

After you’ve used the slicker brush and the undercoat rake, you finish with a metal comb. This is the final step to make sure you’ve actually removed all the mats and tangles. Run the comb through your dog’s coat, and if it glides smoothly without catching, you’re done. If you feel tangles, you go back to the brush or rake and work on that spot again.

We like the BPS comb because it’s sturdy, the teeth are the right spacing for a Goldendoodle’s coat, and it only costs a few dollars. It’s probably the most affordable tool you’ll buy, but don’t skip it just because it’s cheap. The comb is actually the most important tool for catching the mats you might have missed with the brush and rake.

A quick note: We always groom in a well-lit area so we can actually see the coat. It makes a huge difference in catching tangles and mats before they turn into problems.

How Often Should You Groom?

With your Goldendoodle, we recommend brushing at least three times a week, especially when they’re young. As they grow and their coat fills in, you might need to do it more often. During shedding season (typically spring), daily grooming prevents your house from being completely covered in fur.

We’ve found that staying consistent with grooming is way easier than trying to brush out a really matted coat later. A matted coat can actually be painful for your dog, so regular maintenance is important both for appearance and comfort.

When to Call a Professional

These tools will handle brushing and maintenance between grooming appointments. But every 6 to 8 weeks, we still have our dogs professionally groomed. A professional groomer has experience with Goldendoodle coats and can do the full bath, dry, and trim that keeps your dog looking their best. Home grooming and professional grooming work together.

The best part about investing in good grooming tools is that you understand your dog’s coat better. You notice changes. You catch potential skin issues early. And your puppy gets used to being handled and touched, which actually makes vet visits and grooming appointments less stressful for them.

If you take anything away from this, it’s this: get a good slicker brush, use an undercoat rake regularly, finish with a metal comb, and groom consistently. Your Goldendoodle’s coat will thank you, and your house will have way less dog hair on it.

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Best Crates for Goldendoodle Puppies (2026)

If you’re bringing home your first Goldendoodle puppy, one of the best investments you can make is a quality dog crate. We’ve found that a good crate makes crate training easier, gives your puppy a safe den-like space, and helps with potty training from day one.

But with so many options out there, which crate should you choose? We’ve tested several over the years with our own dogs, and here are the ones we recommend for Mini and Mid-sized Goldendoodles.

Why Your Goldendoodle Needs a Crate

Before we jump into the crates themselves, let’s talk about why crate training matters. Dogs are den animals by nature, and a properly sized crate gives your puppy a space that feels secure and safe. When done right (using positive reinforcement, never as punishment), a crate becomes your puppy’s favorite spot, not a jail cell.

A crate also prevents accidents during house training. Puppies won’t soil their sleeping area, so the crate naturally teaches them to hold it until you let them outside. Plus, it keeps your puppy safe when you can’t supervise.

Sizing Your Crate

Here’s the critical part: size matters. Your crate should be just big enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. If it’s too big, your puppy can potty in one corner and sleep in another, which defeats the training purpose.

For Mini Goldendoodles (15-30 pounds as adults), a 36-inch crate works well. For Mid-sized and Standard Goldendoodles (30-75 pounds), a 42-inch crate is your best bet. Since puppies grow fast, look for crates with a divider panel that lets you adjust the interior space as your puppy grows. This means one crate lasts from 8 weeks to adulthood.

Our Recommended Crates

MidWest iCrate 42-Inch (Double Door)

This is our top pick, and honestly, it’s what we use with our own dogs. The MidWest iCrate comes with a divider panel included, so you can adjust the space as your puppy grows. It has two doors (one on the side, one on the end), which gives you flexibility in how you place it in your home. The wire construction allows your puppy to see out, and it folds flat for storage or travel.

Why we like it: It’s sturdy, the divider is genuinely useful, and it lasts for years. We’ve had the same 42-inch crate through multiple litters. The leak-proof tray is easy to clean, and the whole thing assembles without tools.

MidWest iCrate 42-Inch Double Door Dog Crate with Divider Panel

MidWest iCrate Starter Kit

If you want everything in one go, the MidWest Starter Kit is a smart choice. It includes the 42-inch iCrate, a fleece crate bed, a privacy cover, and two stainless steel food bowls. This bundle takes the guesswork out of what you need and saves you from buying pieces separately.

Why we like it: You get a complete setup right out of the box. The cover creates that den-like feeling that helps puppies settle faster, and the included bed gives comfort from day one. It’s a bundle that actually makes sense.

MidWest iCrate 42-Inch Starter Kit with Bed, Bowls, and Cover

JoicyCo Crate Pad Mat

Once you have your crate, you need something soft inside. The JoicyCo Crate Pad is what we use with all our litters. It’s a 42-inch mat with a non-slip bottom that won’t slide around inside the crate. The fleece material is soft and washable, which matters because puppies will have accidents.

Why we like it: The non-slip bottom keeps the mat in place so your puppy doesn’t slip around. It’s washable (throw it in the machine), and it’s affordable enough that you can have two, so one is always clean while the other is drying. The fleece is soft without being too plush, which helps puppies stay cool in warm months.

JoicyCo Dog Crate Pad Mat 42-Inch

MidWest Crate Cover

The crate cover is optional, but we use one. It creates a den-like environment that naturally calms anxious puppies. The privacy makes a difference, especially during crate training when your puppy is learning to settle on their own.

Why we like it: It reduces barking and whining during crate training. The cover is lightweight, has tabs that hold it securely, and it’s machine washable. We’ve found that puppies settle faster and sleep longer when they have a cover that gives them visual privacy.

MidWest Crate Cover for 42-Inch Crates

Training Treats for Crate Training

Crate training is all about positive reinforcement. You’ll need high-value treats to lure your puppy in and reward them for staying calm. Here are two types we recommend.

Wellness Soft Puppy Bites

These are soft, bite-sized training treats made with real meat (lamb and salmon). They’re grain-free and include DHA for brain development. During crate training, you’ll go through a lot of treats, so soft and breakable is key. These are small enough that you can reward hundreds of times without overfeeding.

Why we like it: They’re wholesome, soft enough for puppies, and sized perfectly for training. A bag lasts a good while when you’re breaking them into smaller pieces.

Wellness Soft Puppy Bites 8oz

Pupford Freeze-Dried Chicken Treats

For high-value training moments (like getting into the crate for the first time), freeze-dried chicken is a game-changer. These are just two ingredients: chicken and nothing else. They’re high-protein, low-calorie, and puppies go crazy for them. An 8-ounce bag has over 900 tiny bites.

Why we like it: They’re pure chicken with zero fillers. They don’t make a mess or leave your hands greasy. And because they’re so tiny, you can reward frequently during training sessions. Puppies recognize this as the top-tier treat.

Pupford Freeze-Dried Chicken Training Treats 8oz

Putting It All Together

If you’re starting from scratch, here’s what we’d grab: a 42-inch MidWest iCrate with divider, a JoicyCo crate pad, a MidWest crate cover, and a couple of bags of training treats. Total investment is around $200, and it’s stuff that will last years.

Start crate training early, use positive reinforcement (treats and praise), and never force your puppy into the crate. Let them explore at their own pace. Within a few weeks, your puppy will actually want to go in their crate because it’s their safe space.

Questions about crate sizes or training? Feel free to contact the Puppy Pals team. We’re always happy to help new puppy parents get off to the right start.

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